| WAT RAKHANG (วัดระฆัง) |
| Wat Rakhang is located directly west of the Royal Palace. It is part of a park that includes three restored ruins including Wat Worachetharam and Wat Lokaya Sutha. It is easiest to access this site via the western side of Khlong Tho. The monastery is partially visible from the road. This restored temple ruin is also referred to as Wat Worapho, but a second monastery nearby shares the same name. The latter temple is located directly north of this site beside U-Thong Road. For this research, the two monasteries are considered separate. Wat Worapho is a small but active temple with monks. Wat Rakhang is a large ruin situated within a protected zone. There is significant space and a fence separating the two. For these reasons, this report retains the restored ruin’s original name of Wat Rakhang. Additional details can be found at the link for Wat Worapho. Wat Rakhang is an enormous ruin with many structures in situ. Its primary stupa is a Khmer-influenced prang that has eroded from the point of its relic chamber. This prang has staircases in all the cardinal directions, but its defining characteristic is heavily redented corners. There are a total of nine indents on each side. There is also a large sermon hall south of the prang. This has an east/west alignment, and it is distinguished by its high foundation layers with staircases at the front and back. The colonnades and altar are visible on top. There are also several small chedi in situ that are in various styles and condition. The collapsed stucco of a late-period prang can be seen on southeastern corner of this sermon hall. The area north of the prang also has several structures. One is a large sermon hall with some of its walls and part of a chedi intact. There is a clear trace of a gallery around this sermon hall, including some small fragment of Buddha images. Further north is a two- tiered chedi with a staircase on its eastern side. This has a terrace that allows worshippers to walk around it three times. Its bell shaped chedi has an octagonal base, and the relic chamber portion is slightly tilted. Even further north is the ubosot. This has an east/west alignment toward Khlong Tho (Khlong Chakrai Yai). There are several sema stone marking the building boundaries, and the altar had five images. A large statue of Buddha in the Taming Mara pose is in great condition. It has the full stucco and a very detailed crowned head. In addition, there are still traces of a moat surrounding Wat Wang Rakhang, but this has been partially covered by a road. It is unclear when Wat Rakhang was originally built, but its history is first associated with King Songtham. The King served as a high ranking monk at this monastery under the title of “Phra Phimontham Anantapricha” He was revered as a Buddhist scholar, which enabled him to form a clique of nobles and disciples. This support allowed him to leave the monkhood to claim the throne from the one-eyed King Si Saowaphak (Kasetsiri & Wright 195). Royal Chronicles mention a “Monastery of the Bell” in relation to such an event. After King Ekathotsarot died (sometime around 1610-1611), Si Saowaphak inherited the throne. A man known as Phra Si Sin received a special religious appointment because he became expertly versed in the Three Vedas scriptures and various Royal manuals while ordained as a monk at the Monastery of the Bell. Phra Si Sin used his esteemed position to form a secret plot to siege the throne. As a result, King Si Saowaphak was executed with a sandalwood club at Wat Khok Phraya (Cushman 207-208). King Songtham’s religious interests included the Singhalese sect’s practice of venerating Buddha footprints. When a Buddha footprint was discovered in a forest at Saraburi, the King went on a great pilgrimage to see it and make merit. The connection between the Buddhist customs of Sri Lanka and Siamese monks would continue in relation to this monastery. Burmese warfare resumed in 1662. Enemy troops tricked Siamese soldiers in a battle led by Si Ratcha Decho. The Burmese sent in a decoy army that pretended to withdraw to their stockade in defeat. Si Ratcha Decho led his army of 500 soldiers into the trap while riding a white horse. Despite their noble attempt to fight back, Si Ratcha Decho and his soldiers were captured and tied up. King Narai asked the Royal abbot of the Monastery of the Bell, Phra Phimon Tham, who was skilled at divination, to predict the status of Si Ratcha Decho. The Royal abbot foresaw that the military leader would free himself from capture and gain a victory over the Burmese troops. When the Royal abbot’ s prediction came true, King Narai praised him and presented him with holy rewards (Cushman 280-284). Diplomatic relations with Sri Lanka were renewed during the reign of King Borommakot (1733-1758). At this time, the Buddhist religion in Sri Lanka was suffering and there was a severe shortage of monks. Therefore, the Siamese king fostered ties by sending forth monks and clerics to ordain noble youths and perpetuate Buddhism. They were taken to Sri Lanka by a Dutch merchant on a ship named Olankha. King Borommakot received the Singhalese embassy and presented them with gifts and appropriate rewards. The Singhalese prostrated themselves before the King and rendered homage. When the ship was ready and loaded with articles of royal tribute, the Thai embassy along with 14 holy clerics departed (Cushman 452). It is generally believed that the Singhalese embassy presented King Borommakot with a special tree in gratitude for sending these Siamese monks. This tree was planted, and the King then changed the temple’s name to Wat Worapho. Royal Chronicles also mention that heir apparent Phra Racha Kosapan came from the village of the Monastery of the Bell. In 1741, King Borommakot had this heir appointed to the position of Deputy King (Cushman 434). Phra Ratcha Kosapan, also known as Prince Krommuen Seppakdi, never made it to the throne. Instead he was executed by King Uthumporn who claimed it instead (Garnier 144-145). Another prince in line to the throne, Thep Phiphit, took refuge as a monk at Wat Phanan Choeng before being exiled to Sri Lanka (Cushman 471). Readers should note that there is another monastery on the city island that goes by the name Wat Ho Rakhang (Monastery of the Bell Tower). It is possible that some of these historical events may have taken place at this second temple instead. |
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| Text & photographs by Ken May - September 2009 |
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| Addendum The site is indicated on a mid-19th century map in an identical position as on Phraya Boran Rachathanin's map drafted in 1926. The mid-19th century map indicates the existence of a chedi. On the latter map the monastery is called Wat Borom Phot (วัดบรมโพธ), while on PBR's map it is called Wat Worapho (วัดวรโพธ์) During the reign of King Ekathotsarot (r. 1605-1610/11), Phra Intharacha (the eldest of three sons by a first class concubine) (1) was in the priesthood at Wat Rakhang holding the rank of Phra Rachakhana and bearing the title of Phra Phimontham Anantapricha. The latter would size/ascend the throne of King Si Saowaphak (r. 1610-1611?) and become known as King Song Tham. This period of history is very vague and there are different historical interpretations. Prince Damrong wrote it was thought that the Wat Rakhang mentioned here, to be the temple now called Wat Choeng Tha. [1] [2] Wat Rakhang or the Monastery of the Bell is located in Geo. Coord.: 14° 21' 26.65" N, 100° 33' 15.81" E. Footnotes: (1) Called Phra Sisin in the Royal Chronicles and known as Phra Phimontham. Phra Phimontham left the priesthood, revolted, gathered his adherents, seized the royal palace and put Somdet Phra Si Saowaphak to death. [1] References: [1] Our Wars with the Burmese - Prince Damrong Rajanubhab (1917) - White Lotus, Bangkok (2000) - page 203 & 367. [2] Discovering Ayutthaya - Charnvit Kasetsiri & Michael Wright (2007) - Toyota Thailand Foundation - page 195. |
| Addendum, maps & photographs by Tricky Vandenberg - April 2011 Updated April 2015 |
| (Buddha image at Wat Rakhang) |
| (Remains of a chedi) |
| (More brick work) |
| (Twelve-rabbeted-angled chedi which is typical of King Prasat Thong's reign) |
| (Remains of a monastic building) |
| (Buddha head excavated in situ and displayed in the vihara of Wat Mongkhon Bophit) |
| (Buddha head excavated in situ and displayed in the vihara of Wat Mongkhon Bophit) |
| (Photographs by Somchai Pattanavaew) |
| (Detail of a 19th century map - Courtesy of the Sam Chao Phraya Museum - map is orientated S-N) |
| (Detail of Phraya Boran Rachathanin's map - Anno 1926) |
| (Detail of a 2007 Fine Arts Department GIS map - Courtesy of the Fine Arts Department - 3th Region) |
