WAT THA SAI 1 (วัดท่าทราย) |
This restored temple ruin is located on the city island along U-Thong Road. It is situated near the bridge that crosses Khlong Mueang toward Wat Wong Khong. Although it could be technically classified as a ruin, Wat Tha Sai is now considered part of Wat Racha Praditsathan’s property. The latter is an active monastery. Wat Tha Sai was located next to Khlong Pratu Khao Pluak, which once separated it from Wat Rachapraditsathan (on the opposite side of the canal). This canal has been filled in, for the most part, leaving a small pond on the premises. Traces of a fortress (Pom Khao Pluak) and a water gate (Pratu Khao Pluak) can still be seen in situ. There are many ancient architectural structures on site. The central chedi resembles a style most commonly associated with the Haripunchai Kingdom. The chedi takes the shape of an octagonal tower with multiple arched niches that hold standing Buddha images - several of which can still be seen today. This style of chedi can be seen in Lamphun, which suggests that this monastery might have had some connection with the Lanna kingdom. There are at least three chedis in Ayutthaya with a similar style: Wat Sangkha Tha in the Queen Sri Nakharin Park, Wat Sangkha Pat in the Ayutthaya Historical Park, and the chedi inside the boundary walls of Wat Maha That. In the location where the original sermon hall would have been, is an open-air shrine containing several rows of beautiful, white-painted, mediating Buddha images. A makeshift tin roof was constructed in situ, but it collapsed due to a major wind storm in July 2009. Unfortunately, the collapsed roof caused major damage to the Buddha images and several chedis, and it will require significant funding to make repairs. Also is situ at Wat Tha Sai are several bell-shaped chedis and dozens of memorial monuments (with a surprisingly large amount of Chinese headstones). An old ubosot stands to the south of the shrine, part of its tiled roof still intact. A second building rests behind it. Although badly dilapidated and covered in graffiti, inside the second structure, there are the remains of several Buddha images within arched niches. Wat Tha Sai has also several shrines including a reclining Buddha image. A large modern mandapa covered in brown tiles really stands out on the premises, but this is usually closed to public viewing. The history of Wat Tha Sai is unclear. In the Ayutthaya period, Wat Tha Sai was an important ferry crossing point that was connected to Wat Wong Khong on the other side (Kasetsiri & Hedges 329). This monastery was set in a prime location because of its access to the watergate in front of Khlong Pratu Khao Pluak. Royal Chronicles point out that enemy troops from Lawaek - Cambodia - were posted at Wat Rong Khong Monastery in 1570 (Cushman 77). Some sources say that Wat Tha Sai also played a role in this war with Lawaek troops. Locals have claimed that the enemy fired rounds toward the fortress next to Wat Tha Sai and attempted to collapse the walls in front of this monastery. However, more investigation needs to be made about this claim. |
(Buddha image in the location of the former vihara) |
(Reclining Buddha behind a monastic structure) |
(Satellite chedi on the premises of Wat Tha Sai) |
(Storm damage in July 2009) |
Addendum Wat Tha Sai is mentioned in the Royal Chronicles of Ayutthaya. King Prasat Thong (r. 1629-1656) was celebrating Khao Phansa at Wat Sri Sanphet, circumambulating the main vihara when he saw the youngest son of King Songtham (r. 1610/1611-1628) sitting on the inner wall, observing the procession, not paying his respects to the King. The ten year old Prince Athittayawong was made king of Ayutthaya in 1629, after the execution of his older brother, King Chettha (r. 1628 - 1629), but due to his childhood dethroned by the Kalahom, the Minister of Defense after five weeks. The latter, the new King Prasat Thong, got him punished by stripping of his rank and sending him out of the Grand Palace area in exile near Wat Tha Sai. To be correct I need to mention that it could also have been possible Wat Tha Sai in the Khlong Khu Cham area; an area often used to exile prominent persons during the Ayutthaya era. When it was the beginning of the [BCEF: holy] monsoon season in the eighth lunar month, the Supreme-Holy-Lord-Omnipotent proceeded forth with His concubines and beautiful royal ladies to venerate and light [BCEF: holy] monsoon season candles [E: in a major presentation] to the statue of the [BCDF: Holy] Buddha at the Monastery of the [EF: Holy and] [CDEF: Glorious] Omniscient One. His Majesty came on a tour in front of the [BCDF: large] [BCEF: holy] preaching hall and, glancing with His holy eyes, saw Holy Athittayawong, the [F: holy] royal son of Holy-Lord Song Tham who had been removed from the royal wealth, ascend and sit dangling his feet [BCDF: upon the back of] [E: behind] the crystal wall. Indicating him with His holy hand the King said, "[D: Holy] Athittayawong is rash in failing to descend from the crystal wall in order to be lower [than the King]. Strip Holy Athittayawong of his rank and send someone to build two houses with bamboo posts and two rooms beside the Monastery of Sand Landing for [D: Holy] Athittayawong to Have two people live with him - [BDEF: just] enough [B: to stay] to dip up water and cook rice." After the order His Majesty entered the [C: inner] holy royal palace. [1] During the Burmese attack on Ayutthaya a large fire broke out end 1766 in the vicinity of Wat Tha Sai. The fire, likely supported by the northern wind of the cool season, raged until Thon Market and Wat Chatthan. Ten thousand structures, being temples and houses, were burned during that night. During [C: When it was] the first month of the year of the dog, eighth of the decade, in the evening, a fire broke out at Sand Landing, burned and spread [C: on] in to the Bridge of the Elephants, and [B: came across] [CD: crossed] and ignited the Coconut Forest, the Thon Forest, the Charcoal Forest, the Flame Tree Forest, the Grass Forest, [B: all the way to] the Monastery of the Royal Repairs and [B: the Monastery of] the Holy Grand Reliquary. The fire continued and stopped [B: by] [CD: only at] the Monastery of Chatthan. [2] The ruins of Wat Tha Sai are located in geographical coordinates: 14° 21' 47.27" N, 100° 34' 8.57" E. References: [1] The Royal Chronicles of Ayutthaya - Richard D. Cushman (2006) - page 217 / Source: Phan Canthanumat, British Museum, Reverend Phonnarat, Phra Cakkraphatdiphong & Royal Autograph - King Prasat Thong, 1629-1636. [2] The Royal Chronicles of Ayutthaya - Richard D. Cushman (2006) - page 514 / Source: Phan Canthanumat, British Museum & Reverend Phonnarat - Phræ Deserts the Burmese Forces. |
Addendum & maps by Tricky Vandenberg - December 2015 |
(Detail of a 19th century map - Courtesy of the Sam Chao Phraya Museum - map is orientated S-N) |
(Detail of Phraya Boran Rachathanin's map - Anno 1926) |
(Detail of a 2007 Fine Arts Department GIS map - Courtesy of the Fine Arts Department - 3th Region) |
(Text by Ken May - August 2009) |