| WAT THAMMIKARAT (วัดธรรมิกราช) |
| Wat Thammikarat is located on the city island beside U-Thong Road. It is situated just outside of the Ayutthaya Historic Park. It can be easily accessed by motor vehicle from U-Thong Road or by bike from a small path at its southern end (via King Naresuan Road). The monks at this active monastery humbly request that visitors walk their bikes while on temple property. Wat Thammikarat has been restored a number of times. Many of the architectural structures remain as ruins, but new buildings have been recently constructed since the temple is now active with Buddhist monks. In situ is a large bell-shaped chedi with an octagonal base. This chedi is encircled by a large number of lion figures (singh). These are made of bricks and mortar, and the outer parts are decorated with elaborate detail in stucco. A similar architecture structure with lion figures can be seen at Wat Mae Nang Plum; however, the chedi at Wat Thammikarat also features some multi-headed Naga. There are traces of smaller monuments and fallen spires around this central chedi Other structures at this east/west aligned temple include a massive sermon hall, the size of which is 19 x 53 meters. There are large columns inside this vihan that are still intact. A large portico exists on the eastern side. This includes the staircase and entrances. There are a few pieces of Buddha images inside of this vihan, but not much. Wat Thammikarat also has a small vihara that houses a reclining Buddha. This image is covered with gold leaf and its toes are all of equal size. There are traces of old walls visible around Wat Thammikarat. More recent constructions include a Bangkok-period ordination hall, some shrines, and funeral monuments in the monastery’s northwestern corner. There is also a replica of a giant bronze head that was found at this temple dating back to the U-Thong period. The original is now located at Chao Sam Phraya Museum in Ayutthaya. Various foreign maps show that elephants and their mahouts were housed in the area from Wat Thammikarat to Khlong Pratu Khao Pluak (Vingboons 1660; de La Loubere 1691; Coronelli 1696). This would have been the old boundaries of the city before its walls were expanded. There have been some reports that old ropes used to harness elephants were found at this monastery. Wat Thammikarat most likely pre-dates the founding of Ayutthaya by King U-Thong in 1351. It is historically connected to a Khmer settlement named Ayodaya that was situated just east of the current city island. Derick Garnier points out that, "Archaeologists have found traces of a pre-12th century Dvaravati town on and below the island of Wat Khun Muang Chai, Wat Maha That, and Tambon Bang Kracha" (Garnier 39-40). Evidence suggests Wat Thammikarat also existed at this early time. The "stone lions round the chedi are Khmer, and the colossal Reclining Buddha, of which only the head remains, is in the style of Uthong" (Garnier 40). This pre-Ayutthaya history is backed up by northern Thai chronicles, which state that Phraya Thammikarat, who was son of King Sai Nam Phung, constructed this monastery, and this is how it received its name (Kasetsiri & Wright 96). Royal Chronicles mention this site in reference to a battle to claim the throne. Prince Si Sin, the younger brother of 11-year-old King Yot Fa (who was executed in 1548), was imprisoned at or near Wat Thammikarat by King Chakkraphat. The same King tried placing him earlier into Wat Racha Praditsathan to serve as a novice monk, but as Prince Si Sin got older he felt he had a right to wear the crown, so he gathered his supporters together and staged a rebellion. A revered monk provided Prince Si Sin with an auspicious date to attack the Royal Palace. Prince Si Sin attacked the temple at the Sao Thong Chai Gate, which is located next to Wat Thammikkarat. This surprise attack forced the king to flee the palace. However, Prince Si Sin was eventually killed in battle by gunfire. As a warning against future rebellions, the prince’s colleagues and some of their wives were executed and impaled next to the body of Prince Si Sin (Cushman 41- 42). After King Borommakot died in 1758, his sons started fighting for the throne. Five patriarchs from various powerful monasteries tried to prevent a civil war from forming. One of these peaceful and influential monks was Phra Thamma Khodom of Wat Thammikarat (Kasetsiri & Wright 97). Evidence from this ancient ruin suggests that it was restored during the Late Ayutthaya period. Documents also indicate that is was badly damaged by fire during the second fall of Ayutthaya to the Burmese in 1767 (TAT 106). The Burmese may have been melting down part of the temple for precious metals. Evidence suggests that they did this same activity at Wat Phra Si Sanphet and other monasteries after conquering the city. In 2000, a large swamp covered the southern part of the temple property. This has since been drained, and the temple is now wonderfully landscaped with many flowers and trees. |
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| Text & photographs by Ken May - August 2009 |
| (Bronze Buddha head excavated at the temple's location and exhibited at the Chao Sam Phraya museum) |
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| Addendum Wat Thammikarat was initially called Wat Mukharat. The monastery was built by Thammikarat, a son of King Sai Nam Phung. The style of the temple is from the Early Ayutthaya period. [1] The stupa stands on a octagonal base and is surrounded with 50 lions in Bayon (Khmer) style on a larger square base. The idea of surrounding the base with lions is influenced by the Sukhothai and Bayon styles. [2] References: [1] Master Plan for Tourism Development of Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya and the Neighbouring Provinces - Tourism Authority of Thailand - 6 August 1988 - page 4-78. [2] Navarat Poomkrachang: The analysis of main stupa pattern and surround singh base of Wat Dhammikaraj, Ayutthaya province. Master’s report advisor: asso. Prof. Ph. D. Sakchai Saisingha. 66 pp. ISBN 974-11-6497-1. |
| Addendum & picture slide by Tricky Vandenberg - January 2013 Updated October 2015 |
| (Inside view of the main vihara) |
| (Main stupa surrounded by lions) |
| (Naga stairs) |
| (Reclining Buddha in situ) |
| (Detail of a 19th century map - Courtesy of the Sam Chao Phraya Museum - map is orientated S-N) |
| (Detail of Phraya Boran Rachathanin's map - Anno 1926) |
| (Detail of a 2007 Fine Arts Department GIS map - Courtesy of the Fine Arts Department - 3th Region) |
| Source: Phra Rachawang Lae Wat Boran Nai Changwat Phra Nakhon Ayutthaya (2511 BE) |
