WAT AYOTHYA





Wat Ayothya is a temple still in use by the Buddhist clergy. The monastery is outside the city island in the Hantra Sub-district of Ayutthaya. Wat Ayothya was situated along the west bank of today's defunct Khlong Ayothya (1).


There is evidence that a community settled in this area much earlier than 1351 CE, the date of establishment of the city of Ayutthaya. The Northern Chronicles mention that around 1089/90 CE, on his throne ascent, King Luang turned his palace into a temple called Wat Doem (believed to be Wat Ayothya today) and built a new palace at the mouth of Mae Bia River in 1098 CE.


The existence of the precursor of Ayutthaya is mentioned in the oldest foreign chronicle by the Dutch VOC merchant Jeremias Van Vliet. The latter describes in the "Short History of the Kings of Siam - 1640" the birth of Ayutthaya in this place. Remark that Van Vliet mentions the existence of a city prior.

"Meanwhile, he received information about the island where the city of Ayutthaya is built, and appeared surprised that such a beautiful site was not inhabited nor built upon. But he met a hermit (called Rishi by the Siamese) who informed him that previously there was a city there called Ayutthaya. But how it declined he had no knowledge and added that no other city could be rebuilt there." [1]


King Suryavarman I carried out an expansion in the Chao Phraya valley at the beginning of his reign (1002-1050 CE). The area in the Chao Phraya Basin centred on the Dvaravati town of Lava Pura or Lavo (Lopburi) came under the Khmer Empire. A stone inscription preserved in the National Museum in Bangkok indicates that, about 1017 AD the Khmer had extended their dominions over the whole territory, which now comprises the North and the areas beyond the valley of the Chao Phraya River in modern Thailand. The Khmer probably established Ayothya as an advanced outpost to control the access to the main river leading towards Lopburi. [2]


Ayothya derives from the ancient and one of the holiest Hindu cities of India, the old capital of Awadh, in the Faizabad district of Uttar Pradesh. "Ayothya" is Sanskrit for "not to be warred against".


The area was later invaded by Anawrahta, the King of Pagan (reign 1044-1077 CE) and controlled by the "Burmese" for about a hundred years. After the Burmese influence waned, it was reconquered by the Khmer until, in the mid-13th century, the Tai seized political power (growing Lavo and Suphannaphum Kingdoms). When King U-Thong arrived in the area in 1347 CE, several structures existed. Wat Ayothya is understood to be one of those. [3]





Old structures remaining include two redented pillars, about 2.5 m in height at the eastern entrance and two chedis built in the reign of King Rama V to contain the ashes of the abbot of that time and his relatives. The new ordination hall was rebuilt upon the ruins of the old one during the Rattanakosin era. [4]


Behind the ordination hall are the remains of a chedi, a three-meter-high base built in the late Ayutthaya style (1629-1767 CE).


West of it stands the broken main chedi. The square basis supports the main chedi and its four smaller intercardinal satellites. There were no staircases to climb the high platform. The bell-shaped dome rests on an octagonal pedestal. It is estimated that before, the chedi stood at a height of 30 meters. The stucco design of the dome resembles lotus flowers. The monastic structure is usually overgrown with shrubs, while a large crack is starting to split one of its sides. Behind the chedi lies a brick mound, once a vihara, topped with a small Buddha image.


Historians believe, and publications indicate, that this temple was once one of the principal temples of Ayutthaya, referred to as Wat Deun or Wat Doem. Jeremias Van Vliet, a Dutch merchant, wrote in 1638 CE:


“Within the jurisdiction of Judia are the four principal temples of the whole country namely the king’s temple, Wat Syserpudt, the Nappetat, Wat Deun (which temple is devoted to the moon and where the highest school is established), and Thimphiathey.”


There is although at this moment, no valid proof that Wat Deun, mentioned by Van Vliet, was effectively the location of Wat Ayothya. Neither is there any indication that Wat Ayothya was dedicated to the moon nor that there was any ecclesiastic high school situated here before. [5]


It is clear from the ground plan and the aerial view that Wat Ayothya has been a large monastery in earlier times.


The site is in geographical coordinates: 14° 22' 6.07" N, 100° 35' 21.58" E.


Footnotes:


(1) Khlong Ayothya, and in its extension, Khlong Kudi Dao, was an artificial short-cut canal running north-south and dug in a loop of the Pa Sak River, which old riverbed was Khlong Hantra. The canal is defunct today, but some small stretches remain.





References:

[1] Baker, Chris Pombejra, Dhiravat na Van Der Kraan Alfons & Wyatt, David K. (2005). Van Vliet's Siam. Silkworm Books.
[2] Jermsawatdi, Promsak (1979). Thai Art with Indian Influences. Abhinav Publications. p. 27.
[3] Bhamorabutr, Abha (1981). Ancient Cities in Thailand.
[4] Kasetsiri, Charnvit & Wright, Michael (2007). Discovering Ayutthaya. Toyota Thailand Foundation. pp. 112-3. [5] Baker, Chris Pombejra, Dhiravat na Van Der Kraan Alfons & Wyatt, David K. (2005). Van Vliet's Siam. Silkworm Books. p. 120, 155.


The Ground Plan of Wat Ayothya





Reference: Krom Sinlapakorn (1968), Phra Rachawang lae Wat Boran nai Jangwat Phra Nakhon Sri Ayutthaya (Fine Arts Department).





No. 1: The entrance to the Phutthawat area (the area which is dedicated to Buddha), after inspection, has one gate on the east and west sides, and on the north side, there are two gates on each side. The gate that is still visible is on the east side. The gate has no arch and is of ancient origin. Above the door pillars, on both sides, was a two-tiered tetrahedron abode with an inverted corbel and corbel facing down. The gate pillars were 12-angled rectangular and made of wood about 2.50 metres high.


No 2: When entering the east gate, there are two pagodas on the left and right, square-shaped chedis. The characteristics of the design motifs indicate that both chedis were a new creation during the reign of King Rama V to contain the relics of Patriarch Tai, the abbot at that time, and the ashes of Mr Sang Nang Kasem (parent of the Supreme Patriarch Tai).


No 3: The Ubosot was rebuilt on the original foundation but was not yet completed. Its width is about 8 metres, and its length is about 15 metres. Inside there is a Buddha image. The main Buddha image in the subduing Mara posture is a stucco statue restored according to the original Buddha image. King Chulalongkorn used to come to cover it with gold. I understand that the original principal Buddha image must have been stunning. It was because the original chapel had no roof that the temple deteriorated and was on the verge of being abandoned due to a lack of attentive people. The current principal Buddha image is 1.48 m. tall, 3.50 m. wide, 3.50 m. high, and 4.90 m. high. The north and south porches of the Ubosot, with lower levels, were rebuilt but are the same as the original.


No. 4: The Prang behind the Ubosot stands on a rectangular twelve-rabbeted-angled base with a height of 3.66 m. Seven cross-shaped openings are on each side, about 3 m above the floor. The top of the prang was broken. Remnants can still be seen in the form of jackfruit petals. It is considered to be the work of a craftsman in the period around the reign of King Prasat Thong.


No. 5: The large chedi has a rectangular base. The ground floor is 1 m. high. There is one stairway up the east side. The dome is bell-shaped. There are two layers of overlapping lotus petals adorned at the ends. The lotus petals have a delicate appearance. The throne is octagonal. The rest of the pillars and inverted lotus are left. The estimated height of the chedi is about 30 meters. This chedi looks similar to that at Wat Phra Maha That in the Sanburi District of Chainat Province. Regarding the high base in Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya Province, we have another one at Wat Mae Nang Plum. As for the lotus petal decoration of the bell, it has never been found anywhere else in Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya.


No. 6: The vihara, just a hill about 1 m high, was probably built around the same time as the original ubosot. It was paved with octagonal clay tiles 40 cm wide and 15.5 cm long on each side. When laying the floor, there must be 4 square terracotta tiles inserted in the centre of the Phutthawat area according to this plan. Initially, there was a square twelve-rabbeted-angled chedi to the south of the Ubosot and two original temples when considering the photographs. In the photographs, the chedi appears to be exquisitely beautiful. Probably a craftsman in the reign of King Thai Sa (1709-1733 CE) or Borommakot (1733-1758 CE) constructed it, but it is a pity that it has been torn down.