AYUTTHAYA HISTORICAL RESEARCH



WAT KHOK PHRAYARAM





Wat Khok Phrayaram, or the Monastery of the Mound of the Nobles (1), is a restored ruin located off the city island in the northern area, in the Phukhao Thong Plains, 2 Km north of Ayutthaya in the Phukhao Thong Sub-district. Wat Phukhao Thong and the Naresuan Memorial Park lie in their immediate vicinity.

In situ are the foundations of multiple monastic structures such as the main chedi, an ordination hall and a vihara. The ordination hall is easily visible.


Historians initially thought this site was where several Ayutthaya royals were executed, based on old documents, but in situ excavations excluded this thesis. The important historical site where these executions occurred is Wat Khok Phraya, located near Wat Na Phra Men and Wat Hatsadawat on the north bank of the old Lopburi River.


Probably to distinguish between the two similarly named sites, the ruin in the Phukhao Thong Fields has had "Aram " added to its name, a comparative and superlative form in Sanskrit: Wat Khok Phrayaram, meaning the "Greater Monastery of the Mound of the Nobles".





(The restored ordination hall of Wat Khok Phrayaram - April 2009 CE)



The Royal Chronicles of Ayutthaya mention Wat Khok Phrayaram. The Burmese under King Tabinshwehti (reign 1516-1550 CE), the founder of the second Burmese Empire, or the Toungoo Empire, invaded Siam in 1549 CE via the Three Pagodas Pass (Chedi Sam Ong) and Kanburi (in the Lat Ya Sub-district of Kanchanaburi). The Burmese army arrived north of Ayutthaya and set up its stockades in the Lum Phli Plains. Khok Phrayaram was where King Chakkraphat (reign 1548-1569 CE) positioned his forces to engage the Burmese in battle. In the ensuing fight, Queen Suriyothai was killed by the King of Prae while trying to help her husband after his elephant lost its position in combat.


"At a time of the lunar day of great auspiciousness, the Reverend Astrologer struck a victory gong, the conch shell trumpets resounded, the drums of Indra throbbed, and King Cakkraphat set forth with the royal elephant. The Chief Queen and both of the Princes followed in the retinue of the King. The elephant guards, crowding around and supporting the troop of elephants as they moved, advanced in the lead. There were soldiers riding at their posts on the elephants’ necks and carrying guns and long-handled elephant hooks in their hands, and mahouts at their posts on the rear of each animal. Each elephant was hemmed in on all sides by lines of guards. Then, following the procession of the war elephant guards, came the companies of brave foot soldiers, carrying swords, shields, bucklers, javelins, great spears, paired spears, banners, tasseled lances, bows, and firearms, and crowded together to the right and the left, front and behind. The sound of the marching soldiers and elephants shook the earth as though it would collapse. King Cakkraphat, halting his royal elephant, collected his soldiers and elephant troops and set up positions in formation at Khok Phraya." [1]


Historical data about the monastery and its construction are unknown.





(The restored ordination hall of Wat Khok Phrayaram - April 2019 CE)



Noh Na Paknam


Noh Na Paknam was a prolific writer, art historian, and preservationist who worked closely with Silpakorn University and the Fine Arts Department, and who wrote extensively on Thai temples, antiques, and murals. From November 1966 to March 1967 CE, he spent five months in the Ayutthaya area, visiting known temples and ruins. He visited Wat Khok Phrayaram on 26 February 1967 CE. The following is a report from his site visit.


"Went to explore Wat Khok Phraya with Uab and Wisuta Sanasen and found a slate boundary stone of the Maha Chakkraphat era. It makes one wonder whether it is really Wat Khok Phraya or not. According to history, Wat Khok Phraya has existed since the early Ayutthaya period. It was once the place where Chao Thong Lan was executed, before all the other unfortunate kings. Or perhaps it was renovated during the reign of King Maha Chakkraphat. The villagers call this temple by different names. The old people call it Wat Sam Phraya. Some people call it by other names, which makes one wonder whether it is really Wat Khok Phraya or not. Or perhaps the real Wat Khok Phraya is somewhere else, closer to the palace, instead of being so far away like this. However, Wat Khok Phraya is so badly damaged that nothing is left to see, not even the remains of a stupa, except for the aforementioned mid-Ayutthaya period boundary markers."


The boundary markers from Wat Khok Phrayaram were later found at Wat Phukhao Thong.


The site is not indicated on Phraya Boran Ratchathanin's map, drafted in 1926 CE. Phraya Boran (1871-1936 CE) was the Superintendent Commissioner of Monthon Ayutthaya from 1925 to 1929 CE, but had held important functions in Monthon Ayutthaya since 1896 CE.


Wat Khok Phrayaram is at the geographical coordinates: 14° 22' 23.16" N, 100° 32' 24.79" E.





(Slate boundary stone at Wat Khok Phrayaram – April 2019 CE)



Footnotes:


(1) In the Siamese French English Dictionary from Pallegoix, we find the Thai word "Phraya", translated as "king, mandarin". I translated the word "Phraya" as "nobles".


References:


[1] Cushman, Richard D. & Wyatt, David K. (2006). The Royal Chronicles of Ayutthaya. Bangkok: The Siam Society. p. 33. [2] Siamese French English Dictionary by D.J.B. Pallegoix, Bishop of Mallos. Vicar Apostolic of Siam - revised by J.L. Vey, Bishop of Geraza, Vicar Apostolic of Siam - printing office of the Catholic Mission Bangkok (1896). p. 712. [3] Uluchada, Prayoon aka Noh Na Paknam (2527). Five Months in the Midst of Ayutthaya's Brick Rubble. (Hā Dư̄an Klāng Sākʻit Pūn Thī ʻAyutthayā). Bangkok.



Selected PICTURES



Pictures taken April 2009 CE



Pictures taken April 2019 CE



MAPS



Map 1 - Detail of a 2007 CE Fine Arts Department GIS map. Courtesy of the Fine Arts Department 3rd Region.
Map 2 - Google Earth.



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(Alexis de Tocqueville)





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