Wat Rakhang covers a large area. In an overview from north to south, we find first an ordination hall with the entrance towards the east and towards Khlong Pak Tho. Sema stone foundations mark the building boundaries. The ubosot has a Buddha image. The base of the Buddha image was made of bricks and cement, 5 meters wide on each side, 6 meters long on each side and 2 meters high. The original Buddha image was a statue in the Mara Wichai (3) attitude from the Ayutthaya period, built with brick and cement. Later, it was damaged, and there was only a Chinese Buddha image left. Locals repaired the Buddha image with new cement. His right and left fingers were broken, his right foot was broken in half. On the south side of the ubosot, we find the basic foundations of a chedi on a square base and a two-tiered chedi with a staircase on its eastern side. The staircase leads to a double terrace whereupon stands a bell-shaped chedi on an octagonal base, of which the dome is slightly tilted.
The following monastic structure is the main stupa of the monastery. The stupa was surrounded by a square gallery of 45 x 45 metres, of which the foundations are visible. The stupa was a 36-rabbeted-angled prang, typical for King Borommakot’s reign and unique in Ayutthaya. Unfortunately, only the base remains. The prang has steep staircases in the cardinal directions as usual.
South of the central stupa is a restored sermon hall with redented foundations on a large square base or platform with sides of approximately 30 metres aligned east/west. In the front and at the back of the base, as well as the vihara, are staircases.
Several small chedis in various styles and conditions are spread all over the site. Remnants of the outer wall are also visible.
Epithet
Engelbert Kaempfer’s Map indicates another temple north of Wat Rakhang along the Na Rong Mai Road opposite the Saphan Sai So Bridge (Chain Bridge) and the Maha Phokharat palace gate. The Fine Arts Department writes that during the reign of King Borommakot, the name of Wat Rakhang was changed into Wat Worapho to commemorate the return of the group of monks having re-established the upasampada (higher ordination) and created the Siam Nikaya order in Sri Lanka and having brought a sprout of a Bodhi tree from Sri Lanka. The latter tree was considered to be a sprout from the original Bodhi tree of Bodh Gaya, under which Buddha reached enlightenment.
Based on Kaempfer’s map, I believe Wat Worapho was established to shelter the sprout of a Bodhi tree from Sri Lanka, and the change of name attributed to Wat Rakhang is not correct. Today at the exact location indicated by Kaempfer, there is the modern Wat Worapho. Archaeological excavation on the site could confirm whether or not Kaempfer’s drawing is correct.
Wat Rakhang is indicated on a mid-19th century map in an identical position as on Phraya Boran Rachathanin's map drafted in 1926 CE. The 19th-century map shows the existence of a chedi, not a prang. On the latter map, the monastery is called Wat Borom Phot (วัดบรมโพธ), while on PBR's map, it is called Wat Worapho (วัดวรโพธ์).
Wat Rakhang is in geographical coordinates: 14° 21' 26.65" N, 100° 33' 15.81" E.
Footnotes:
(1) 'The Short History of the Kings of Siam' of Jeremias Van Vliet, written in 1640, does not mention King Si Saowaphak. [5] In 'Van Vliet's Siam,' a footnote mentions that George V. Smith argued that none of the Dutch and English archival evidence nearly contemporary with the events concerned, mentions King Si Saowaphak. [6] Hence the latter was called the ‘phantom’ king.
(2) In 1735 CE, King Borommakot became ill. Suren Phithak (Chaofa Naren, the eldest son of the late King Thai Sa), who was ordained at Wat Khok Saeng, often visited King Borommakot during this period. Chaofa Thammathibet, the only son of the elder consort of the king, Queen Aphainuchit, and two of his children laid an ambush for Chaofa Naren, likely out of jealousy as the latter enjoyed the king’s favour. Naren escaped Thammathibet 's attack and reported the attempt on his life afterwards to the king. The elder consort, Queen Aphainuchit, realising her son was in danger, smuggled Thammathibet out of the palace in her palanquin and took him to Wat Khok Saeng, where he was ordained. King Borommakot searching for Thammathibet and unable to find him, ordered the execution of Thammathibet 's two children. [7] In 1737 CE, the first Queen became very ill, and she asked the king to forgive her son. The king consented to her wish, upon which she died. Thammathibet left the monkhood immediately and resumed his position. [8] In 1755 CE Thammathibet, then Uparat, was accused by his three rival half-brothers of committing adultery with some of the king’s royal consorts, two of them Lady Sangwan and Lady Nim. Chao Fa Sangwan was the third queen of King Borommakot and the granddaughter of King Petracha, while Lady Nim was the king’s first concubine. The Uparat was condemned to a flogging of 230 strokes and died during the execution. The court ladies received 30 strokes each. Queen Sangwan died three days later, while Lady Nim survived and was degraded to a servant. The Uparat and Lady Sangwan were buried at Wat Chai Watthanaram. [9] Chaofa Thammathibet was next to a ruthless politician, a poet and the writer of many travel poems titled Kap Ho Khlong Nirat Phra Bat and Kap Ho Khlong Praphat Than Thongdaeng, and the Kap He Ruea boat song. Bhawan Ruangsilp covers an extensive account of Thammathibet in her book ‘Dutch East India Company Merchants at the Court of Ayutthaya: Dutch Perceptions of the Thai Kingdom, 1604-1765.’ [10]
(3) Māravijaya Attitude or Mara Vichai is an attitude of Buddha in Thai art in which the seated Buddha is putting his hand in a relaxed posture towards the ground, loosely holding his knee. The other hand is on his lap. His eyes, sometimes closed, look down to the ground.
