WAT SALA PUN





Wat Sala Pun, or the Monastery of the Pavilion of Lime, is an active monastery located off the city island in the northwestern area of Ayutthaya, in the Tha Wasukri Sub-district. It is situated on the north bank of Khlong Mueang (1). Wat Phanom Yong and Wat Phrom Niwat lie in its vicinity.

In situ are the classic monastic buildings. The ordination hall and chedi stand in a northwest-southeast alignment. A wall surrounds the structures. The ubosot in the late Ayutthaya style had a three-tiered roof and two porches. The elevated front porch has three entries two small ones and, in the middle, a large one. The rear porch has two entrances. In between the doors stands a chapel with rather west-European features. Two columns support the roof above the porches. The hall has three rectangular windows on the longest sides. Behind the hall stands a bell-shaped chedi surrounded by a low inner wall.

Within the walls surrounding the ubosot and chedi stands a restored library building (Ho Trai) in which the Buddhist scriptures were kept with well-preserved stucco in a flower pattern on its pediment.





(Wat Sala Pun - Picture taken September 2018 CE)



Historical data about the monastery and its construction are unknown. The site is indicated on Phraya Boran Ratchathanin's map drafted in 1926 CE.


The temple housed a primary school in earlier years. It was at this school that Pridi Banomyong spent his early years. [1]


Wat Sala Pun is renowned for its beautifully hand-carved wooden Tripitaka cabinet in which were kept the sacred Buddhist manuscripts, mostly large libretto books made of a type of thick mulberry paper depicting elaborate scenes from the Jatakas, story of Phra Malai, the life of the Buddha, etc. These cabinets were either black lacquer with mother-of-pearl inlay or carved and painted with gold.


The temple is a second-class royal temple of the Maha Nikaya sect and ranked "worawiharn" (4th grade) following a ranking system for royal temples, which was initiated in 1913 CE. [2]


Ban Sala Pun, or the Village of the Lime Pavilion, is one of the old villages mentioned in the "Geographical description of Ayutthaya: Documents from the Palace". The village set up furnaces to produce and sell red lime. As the name of the village indicates, it should have been located in the vicinity of Wat Sala Pun and Wat Phrom Niwat. Phraya Boran Ratchathanin also mentions in his "Explanation of the map of the Capital of Ayutthaya" that there was a market in this area. Wat Sala Pun was likely the religious centre of Ban Sala Pun. [3]





(Picture from Wat Sala Pun before renovation in the reign of King Rama IV)



Noh Na Paknam, a prolific writer, art historian, and preservationist, visited Wat Sala Pun on 8 November 1966 CE. He was not at all amused by the ongoing renovation and recorded the following:


“Today, we went to Wat Sala Pun. The main temple building is undergoing restoration and renovation, yet there were no officials from the Fine Arts Department or art experts supervising the work. As a result, the temple building has been severely damaged and altered, a truly heartbreaking sight. It makes me think that in our country today, everyone works in a self-serving manner. Those responsible for this work turn a blind eye, believing there are no laws governing the situation. They don't care about the extent of the damage, considering it outside their duties, and they lack compassion. It's a pity that such a beautiful national treasure is being destroyed before our very eyes. It seems this concern is completely absent from the minds of those responsible.


In fact, Wat Sala Pun should have been registered as a national historical site long ago. I don't understand why the senior officials don't see the importance of the art and its historical significance there. It's quite strange. The wood carvings on the gable, the beautiful patterns on the ceiling brackets, and the stucco work throughout are all exquisite. These things have indeed been... It was renovated during the reign of King Rama IV. Still, the renovation at that time focused only on restoring the dilapidated parts, leaving the ancient ones untouched, so that the beautiful art of ancient Ayutthaya remains for us to admire.


Now he is restoring it haphazardly, according to the abbot's wishes, so the beautiful pillars beside the main chapel have been completely removed. On the gable, the poorly crafted celestial beings have been attached over the beautiful original wooden carvings. It is an extremely low and despicable act. No craftsman has taken responsibility for this. It is truly pathetic. The beautiful corbels that were once admired have now been painted yellow and have immediately become inferior.


These days, people not only lack the heart to respect ancient craftsmanship but also dare to touch and destroy their work. They also have such low taste that it is impossible to compare them to anything else. The destruction of Ayutthaya was not only the city itself, which the Burmese burned, but also the refinement of the spirit and the wisdom of aesthetic appreciation. It seems to have all vanished. Now, only low-class people from the forests and mountains remain, lacking the eyes or hearts to appreciate the high artistic skill of their ancestors. Or perhaps the Burmese have also ripped out their hearts? The outside of the temple is so battered, imagine what it's like inside. No matter how much I saw it, it made me not want to go inside the ordination hall. Enough is enough. I didn't want to be hurt any more.” [4]



A sandstone relief dating back to the 14-15th century CE depicting a Bodhi tree was found in Khlong Mueang near Wat Sala Pun.





The site is in geographical coordinates: 14° 21' 39.87" N, 100° 32' 57.71" E.


Footnotes:


(1) Khlong Mueang, or the City Canal, is a stretch of the old Lopburi River on the northern side of Ayutthaya's city island. Many people believe it is a manufactured canal. The Lopburi River descending from the north, ran in the Ayutthaya period around the city and joined the Chao Phraya River near Bang Sai (below Bang Pa-In). Khlong Mueang is a remnant from that time. Today, the canal starts at Hua Ro and has its exit at the confluence with the Chao Phraya River near Hua Laem.


References:


[1] Concise autobiography of Nai Pridi Banomyong (1983).

[2] www.dhammathai.org/watthai/listroyalwat1.php retrieved 14 December 2009.

[3] Pongsripian, Vinai, Dr. (2007). Phanna phumisathan Phra Nakhon Sri Ayutthaya: Ekasan jak Ho Luang. Geographical description of Ayutthaya: Documents from the palace. Bangkok: Usakane. p. 87.

[4] Uluchada, Prayoon, aka Noh Na Paknam (1984). Five Months in the Midst of Ayutthaya's Brick Rubble. (Hā Dư̄an Klāng Sākʻit Pūn Thī ʻAyutthayā). Bangkok.