WAT RAENG 2 (วัดแร้ง) |
Wat Raeng or the Monastery of the Vulture is located on the city island in the (U-Thong Soi 22). This area is still part of Ayutthaya's Historical Park. The temple was situated in between Wat Pho Phueak / Wat Chayaram and Wat Maha Saman. It is not clear whether or not this temple was situated within the city walls. On a mid-19th century map, the monastery is drafted in the city wall, which is likely incorrect. Wat Raeng was situated close to the Wat Chayaram boat landing which stood in connection with the Ban Chi landing on the opposite side of the Lopburi River at that time (at present the Chao Phraya River). In situ is a mound largely covered in vegetation. Some excavation by the Fine Arts Department had been undertaken prior our visit in 2009 as filled-in excavation pits were visible that time. Its historical background and period of construction are unknown. The monastery is mentioned on a mid-19th century map in a more or less identical position as mentioned on Phraya Boran Rachathanin's map drafted in 1926. The exposure of the corpse to vultures was a very ancient and widespread custom. Quaritch Wales wrote it used to be the custom in Siam at some time before cremation, to cut off part of the flesh of the corpse immediately after death, and offer it to the temple dogs and vultures on gold or silver dishes. This was only done by the wish of the deceased. It was given a Buddhist significance, and considered an act of great merit. It ceased long ago to be the custom of royalty, and has been prohibited by law in the case of commoners. [1] The practice of exposing a corpse to the vultures was a very ancient one amongst the Khmers, since it is mentioned in the History of the Leang, and it was also common amongst the Malays, prior to the introduction of Islam. [1] It existed in Siam till begin of the 20th century in its primitive form as a means of disposing of the bodies of criminals and paupers. (1) De La Loubère wrote: "Those that have not wherewithal to pay the Talapoins, do think they do honor enough to their dead parents, to expose them in the field on an eminent place, that is to say on a scaffold, where the volturs and the crows devour them." [2] This author is of the opinion that Wat Raeng was a kind of temple "specialized" in exposing corpses in the open air and to let vultures and carrion birds consume the flesh. The bones were then burned and the ashes scattered. Wat Raeng was located in Geo. Coord.: 14° 20' 33.34" N, 100° 32' 49.91" E. Footnotes: (1) Even in these cases the bones were collected and either buried or burnt. References: [1] Siamese state ceremonies their history and function - H. G. Quaritch Wales, London (1931). [2] A New Historical Relation of the Kingdom of Siam - Simon de La Loubère Translated by A.P.Kuala Lumpur : Oxford University Press (1986) - Page 125. |
Text, maps & photographs by Tricky Vandenberg - July 2009 Reviewed April 2011, April 2012, April 2015 |
(Excavation pit in location) |
(Excavation pit in location) |
(Exposure of corpses to the vultures) |
(Detail of a 19th century map - map is orientated S-N) |
(Detail of Phraya Boran Rachathanin's map - Anno 1926) |
(Detail of a 2007 Fine Arts Department GIS map - Courtesy of the Fine Arts Department - 3th Region) |
(Exposure of corpses to the vultures) |