WAT LOKAYA SUTHA (วัดโลกยสุธา) |
Wat Lokaya Sutha is located directly west of the Royal Palace. It is part of a park that includes three restored ruins including Wat Worachet and the original Wat Worapho. It is easiest to access this site via the western side of Khlong Tho. There is a small side alley leading to it as well as a newly constructed road. Wat Lokaya Sutha can also be accessed from a third road in its southwestern corner, which also serves as a route to Chedi Suriyothai. Wat Lokaya Sutha is a massive temple ruin. It is aligned toward an east/west axis. There are two small chedi outside of its compound, and a portion of the spire of a third chedi is still in situ. These are all in a Late Ayutthaya period style. The monastery itself has been heavily restored, including floor tiles and brick floors throughout. Most of the temple exists only at the basic foundation level. This includes some stubs of pillars and basic walls. At the eastern entrance are the remnants of three vihans. Behind these sermon halls is a large 30 meters high, Late Ayutthaya period, Khmer-style prang (Kasetsiri & Wright 92). This prang-tower has a hollow entrance on its eastern side. The remains of an ubsot can be seen behind the prang. Only the basic foundation layer has survived, but there are many sema stones and the detritus of Buddha images. A large bell tower stands on the southwestern corner of this ubosot. The highlight of this temple is its enormous reclining Buddha image (37 meters long and 8 meter high), which is located behind the ubosot. It was once encased by a viharn, but that has also collapsed to the basic foundation level. The reclining Buddha is 42 meters in length and 8 meters high, and its name is Phra Buddha Sai Yat. The reclining Buddha image is aligned to a north/south axis, and it is facing west. All the Buddha’s toes are of equal lengths. The arm supporting the head is vertical, instead of being folded as in the Early Ayutthaya and U-Thong periods. This vertical arm is a characteristic of reclining images made in the Middle Ayutthaya period - after the 16th century (Amatyakul 47). The reclining Buddha image is usually wrapped in brightly colored orange cloth. A small altar exists beside it where visitors can make offerings. Many people have covered portions of the image in gold leaf. There is an interesting Lanna-style chedi northwest of the reclining Buddha image. This non-restored chedi is often buried in heavy vegetation, so it may be difficult to see. Nevertheless, it is one of the most amazing sights at this temple ruin. This chedi has an octagonal base, and it takes an almost prang-like shape. However, the stucco is very well preserved. There are a large number of arched niches built around the relic chamber. Many of these niches still have standing Buddha images formed from stucco (including their heads). There are also several meditating Buddha images near the spire. These are also fairly well preserved. This type of architectural is sometimes associated with the Haripunchai Kingdom in Lamphun - implying that this monastery may have provided services to be people from the north. There was once a canal leading from Chao Phraya River to the Royal Palace, which passed by Wat Lokaya Sutha. Although the canals ancient name is unclear, on some modern maps it is referred to as Khlong Fang. This canal formed a moat around Wat Lokaya Sutha, and its connection to the Royal Palace implies that this monastery once had great importance. However, despite its massive size and prime location, there isn’t much known about the history of Wat Lokaya Sutha. The reclining Buddha image was restored in 1954 by the Alcoholic Beverages Factory (once located in the same neighborhood). It was restored again in 1956 during the time of Field Marshall Phibunsongkhram (Kasetsiri & Wright 94-95). This prime minister also did major renovations in the Ayutthaya Historical Park at the same time. In 1989, the family of former Prime Minister Luang Thamrongwasawat (1946-1947) contributed to renovations at this monastery. The Fine Arts department has continued to maintain it since then. |
Text & photographs by Ken May - August 2009 |
Addendum The site is indicated on a mid-19th century map in an identical position as on Phraya Boran Rachathanin's map drafted in 1926. The mid-19th century map indicates the existence of a prang, which at present still can be seen. There is also an inscription mentioning the large reclining Buddha in situ, which has been renovated in 1956 by the Fine Arts Department (2). On the oldest map (วัดโลกย์สุธา) (1) and on the PBR map (วัดโลกสุธา) the temple is called Wat Lok Sutha, which can be translated as the Monastery of the Celestial World. At present the ruin is called Wat Lokaya Sutha (วัดโลกยสุธา). Where this present name derivation comes from is not known to the author. The ruin of Wat Lokaya Sutha is located in geographical coordinates: 14° 21' 20.19" N, 100° 33' 10.97" E. Footnotes: (1) โลก = world; สุธา = celestial; สุธรรม = Good Dharma. (2) Explanatory FAD board in situ. |
Addendum & maps by Tricky Vandenberg - April 2011 Updated December 2014 |
(Main prang) |
(Reclining Buddha image) |
(Reclining Buddha image) |
(Stucco of northwestern chedi) |
(View of northwestern chedi) |
(Buddha heads excavated at the site of Wat Lokaya Sutha and displayed at the vihara of Wat Mongkhon Bophit) |
(Detail of a 19th century map - Courtesy of the Sam Chao Phraya Museum) |
(Detail of Phraya Boran Rachathanin's map - Anno 1926) |
(Detail of a 2007 Fine Arts Department GIS map - Courtesy of the Fine Arts Department - 3th Region) |
(Source: Phra Rachawang lae Wat Boran nai Jangwat Phra Nakhon Sri Ayuthaya - 2511. Courtesy of the Fine Arts Department - 3th Region) |