PHRA PATHAWI





In the "Geographical description of Ayutthaya: Documents from the Palace", there are eight sacred places mentioned outside the city of Ayutthaya, being the glory of the capital since olden times. [1] One of these eight places is Phra Pathawi (1), located at Wat Phra Phuttha Chai in Nong Pla Lai Sub-district of Sara Buri, featuring a natural relief-like image of the Buddha on a limestone rock face. The location is 8 Km south of the centre of Saraburi City and 33 Km from Phra Phuttha Bat.


Legend has it that when the Buddha set foot in the area of Sara Buri, he went to the Kataka Mountain (2) (Phra Phutthachai Mountain) to teach a hunter, which led the latter to become a saint. When the Buddha wanted to return, Phra Kataka (the former hunter) asked for a memorial gift for him to worship. The Gautama Buddha revealed himself by projecting his image on the rock face of the Phra Phuttha Chai Mountain.


The part of the rock wall displaying the image is embedded in a pagoda, with a terrace offering a panoramic view of the surrounding area. On the east side is a reclining Buddha with the feet in an uncommon posture, with next to it several Gandara-styled Buddha images. Near the large Buddha image are gilded carvings in the rock said to be engravings by the Kings of the Chakri Dynasty on a visit to Phra Phuttha Chai. The monastic enclosure can be reached by stairs.





(View of Wat Phra Phuttha Chai – Picture taken August 2013 CE)



I found two references of royal visits in the Royal Chronicles of Ayutthaya. The chronicles mention a visit of King Süa (reign 1703-1709 CE) to Phra Pathawi in 1709 CE, shortly before falling sick and dying and a visit of King Suriyamarin (reign 1758-1767 CE) at the beginning of 1765 CE. The texts speak of the "Mountain of the Earth", which is a reference to Pathawi (1), while the Holy Mirror could be the so-called shadow (mirage) of the Buddha (เงา), though it remains a guess.


“Then [the King] offered veneration, took His leave, advanced the procession of His warriors, groups of elephants and brave forces along towards the east and, crossing the Teak Forest Branch of the Mother of Waters in the district of the Teak Forest, went to the Mountain of the Earth. His Majesty ascended it to offer veneration to the image of the Holy Buddha and then remained there for three days.” [2]


“When the first month arrived, His Majesty the Supreme Holy Buddhist Lord Omnipotent went up in holy royal procession to venerate the Holy Mirror at the Mount of the Earth and stayed for two days. Then His Majesty came back down and went up to venerate the Footprint of the Holy Buddha and perform the Buddhist celebration of revolving the holy tapers for an entire seven days. Then His Majesty returned to the Holy Grand Metropolis.” [3]


Undoubtedly, this place must have been visited by the Ayutthaya Kings during their stay at Wat Phra Phuttha Bat. Legend says that Phra Pathawi was discovered in the reign of King Songtham (Intharacha) (1610/1611-1628) after the Footstep of the Buddha was found.





(The Buddha revealed himself by projecting his image on the rock face - Picture taken August 2013 CE)



Henri Mouhot visited the place at the end of 1858 CE and noted that Laotian pilgrims visited Pathawi, while the Siamese mainly did the Phrabat. Here under is a description of Pathawi by Mouhot.

“... and at last reached Patawi. As at Phrabat, there is a bell, both at the foot of the mount and at the entrance of a long and wide avenue leading to the pagoda, which the pilgrims ring on arriving, to inform the good genii of their presence and bespeak a favourable hearing to their prayers. The mount is isolated, and about 450 feet in height its formation is similar to that of Phrabat, but, although its appearance is equally grand, it presents distinct points of variation. Here are not to be seen those masses of rock, piled one upon another, as if hurled by the giants in a combat like that fabled of old. Patawi seems to be composed of one enormous rock, which rises almost perpendicularly like a wall, excepting the centre portion, which towards the south hangs over like a roof, projecting eighteen or twenty feet. At the first glance might be recognised the action of water upon a soil originally clay. There are many footprints similar to those of Phrabat, and in several places are to be seen entire trunks of trees in a state of petrifaction lying close to growing individuals of the same species. They have all the appearance of having been just felled, and it is only on testing their hardness with a hammer that one feels sure of not being mistaken. An ascent of several large stone steps leads, on the left hand, to the pagoda and, on the right, to the residence of the Talapoins, or priests, who are three in number - a superior and two assistants, appointed to watch and pay reverence to the precious "rays" of Somanakodom. Were the authors who have written about Buddhism ignorant of the signification of the word "ray" employed by the Buddhists? Now, in the Siamese language, the same word which means "ray" signifies also shadow, and it is through respect for their deity that the first meaning is applied.” [3]





(Part of the rock wall displaying the image is embedded in a pagoda – Picture taken August 2013 CE)



In July 1994 CE, the Fine Arts Department - 3rd Region started the restoration of Wat Pra Phuttha Chai. During this restoration, a 2.5-meter large "Buddha Footprint" was discovered carved in the rock. The footprint is believed to date from the Mon-Dvaravati period (6th to the 13th century), before the "Khmerization" of the area by Angkor. From the top of the hill, you have a majestic view of the area. Who better than Henri Mouhot can describe the Feast of the Eyes:


“I went to the extreme north of the mount, where some generous being has kindly had constructed, for the shelter of travellers, a hall, such as is found in many places near pagodas. The view here is indescribably splendid, and I cannot pretend to do justice either with pen or pencil to the grand scenes which here and elsewhere were displayed before my eyes. I can but seize the general effect and some of the details all I can promise to do is to introduce nothing which I have not seen. Hitherto, all the views I had seen in Siam had been limited in extent, but here, the beauty of the country is exhibited in all its splendour.

Beneath my feet was a rich and velvety carpet of brilliant and varied colours an immense tract of forest, amidst which the fields of rice and the unwooded spots appeared like little streaks of green beyond, the ground, rising gradually, swells into hills of different elevations farther still to the north and east, in the form of a semicircle, is the mountain-chain of Phrabat and that of the kingdom of Muang-Lom and in the extreme distance those of Korat, fully sixty miles distant. All these join one another and are, in fact, but a single range. But how describe the varieties of form among all these peaks! In one place, they seem to melt into the vapoury rose tints of the horizon, while nearer at hand, the peculiar structure and colour of the rocks bring out more strongly the richness of the vegetation there, again, are deep shadows vying with the deep blue of the heaven above everywhere those brilliant sunny lights, those delicate hues, those warm tones, which make the tout ensemble perfectly enchanting.

The spectacle is one which the eye of a painter can seize and revel in but which his brush, however skilful, can transfer most imperfectly to his canvas. At the sight of this unexpected panorama, a cry of admiration burst simultaneously from all mouths. Even my poor companions, generally insensible to the beauties of nature, experienced a moment of ecstasy at the sublimity of the scene. "Oh! di, di" (beautiful), cried my young Laotian guide, and when I asked Kue what he thought of it, " Oh ! master," he replied, in his mixed jargon of Latin, English, and Siamese, " the Siamese see Buddha on a stone, and do not see God in these grand things. I am pleased to have been to Patawi." On the opposite side, viz. the south, the picture is different. Here is a vast plain, which extends from the base of Patawi and the other mountains beyond Ayuthia, whose high towers are visible in the distance, 120 miles off. At the first glance, one distinguishes what was formerly the bed of the sea, this great plain having taken the place of an ancient gulf: proof of which is afforded by numerous marine shells, many of which I collected in a perfect state of preservation while the rocks, with their footprints and fossil shells, are indicative of some great change at a still earlier period.
[4]

The site is in geographical coordinates: 14° 27' 35.43" N, 100° 56' 56.31" E.





(The Buddha footprint carved in the rock on top of the hill dating to the Dvaravati period - Picture taken August 2013 CE)



Footnotes:

(1) ปฐวี = ground, earth, soil.(2) कटक = Kataka (Sanskrit) the side or ridge of a hill or mountain.

References:

[1] Pongsripian, Vinai, Dr. (2007). Phanna phumisathan Phra Nakhon Sri Ayutthaya: Ekasan jak Ho Luang. Geographical description of Ayutthaya: Documents from the palace. Bangkok: Usakane. p. 107.
[2] Cushman, Richard D. & Wyatt, David K. (2006). The Royal Chronicles of Ayutthaya. Bangkok: The Siam Society. p. 396
[3] Ibid. p. 492.
[4] Mouhot, Henry (1864). Travels in the Central Parts of Indo-China (Siam), Cambodia, and Laos during the years 1858, 1859, and 1860. In two volumes. vol. I. London, John Murray, Albemarle Street. pp. 124-8.





(Views of the mountains of Korat, taken from Pathawi - Sketch by Mouhot)