WAT CHANG PAK KRAN





Wat Chang Pak Kran, or the Monastery of the Elephant, is situated off the city island in the southern area of Ayutthaya in the Pak Kran Sub-district. The monastery is located south of Khlong Takhian (1), and there is evidence that a side canal could have accessed it.


It is an active temple with classical monastic structures in situ. The ubosot or ordination hall is strangely aligned on a northwest-southeast axis. The hall was built in the late Rattanakosin style (the structure's base is not curved). The building has a double three-tiered roof, of which the lowest roof is supported by four columns on each of the porches. The two elevated porches can be accessed by small naga staircases on the sides. Both porches have two entries into the ubosot. The gables are nicely decorated with Airavata (Erawan), the mount of the God Indra, and Hongsa, the mount of Lord Brahma (Hindu mythology). There were no traces found of a chedi.


An information board in situ states that the establishment of Wat Chang dates from the reign of King Chakkraphat (1548-1569 CE), the King of the White Elephants, at around 1549 CE. The monastery honours its name as all over the premises sculptured elephants can be seen.


The historical background of the temple is unknown.


It looks like Wat Chang figures on the detailed map of the Chao Phraya River by François Valentyn and part of his work "Oud en Nieuw Oost-Indien" (1724-1726 CE). The site is not named but sits between 'de Makassaarse Campo' [Macassar settlement - No 40] and de Franse Campon [French Settlement - No 48] on the right bank (south bank) of Khlong Takhian, somewhere in the middle of the waterway.


Wat Chang does not show on any Fine Arts Department maps from 1957 until 2007 CE.


The monastery is in geographical coordinates: 14°19' 27.7" N, 100° 33' 16.7" E.





(Entry of Wat Chang Pak Kran)



Footnotes:


(1) Khlong Takhian is a still existing canal south of Ayutthaya's city island, running mainly through Pak Kran and Khlong Takhian sub-districts. The canal is named after the Malabar Ironwood, a tree often used for making boats and ship masts. The canal originates at the Chao Phraya River near the St Joseph Church in the former Cochin Chinese Settlement. It has its mouth further south, back in the Chao Phraya River, below the former Portuguese settlement and opposite the northern tip of Rian Island (Ko Rian). The canal was a man-made shortcut or 'Khlong lat' between two stretches of the old Lopburi River at a time the waterway was surrounding Ayutthaya, used by boats to avoid the heavy current of the river and the turbulent waters near the Bang Kraja confluence. The canal was named by the French "Canal du Grand Cochon". On most of the older Thai maps, we will read Khu Lakhon Chai. Kaempfer indicates on his map another canal named Nam Ja, running south into the old Chao Phraya River.