WAT KRAJI





Wat Kraji is a ruined monastery situated on Ayutthaya’s city island in Pratu Chai Sub-district. The ruin stands along the northern side of Pa Thon Road, the ‘Street of the Moors’ in the Ayutthaya era. The temple can be found on the property of the Provincial Police Headquarters, and a good landmark for finding it is the post office on the opposite side of the road.


Wat Kraji stood in the middle between Khlong Pratu Khao Pluak and Khlong Nai Kai (Makham Riang), west of Thewa Sathan (ruin), east of an unidentified temple (defunct) and north of Wat Noi Nang Hong (defunct) on the opposite side of Pa Thon Road.


The only remaining structure of this monastery is a chedi, which, based on the remaining architectural details, must date back to the middle Ayutthaya period.


The chedi, which drum, dome and harmika have seriously deteriorated, still had its spire. Some discs in the upper part of the spire were missing as well as the top knob. Looters dug a large hole to access the inner chamber on the northern side of the chedi. The base was not visible due to brick fall and overgrowth, while a Bodhi tree was growing on the structure.


A restoration project started in 2018, in which the chedi was stabilised, the Bodhi tree trimmed to take the pressure away from the structure, and excavations began. Restoration of the chedi was done in 2021 (Wat Krachee Conservation Project).


There is no clear record of when the temple was built. In the old documents, we read that on Kraji Road, artisans made Buddha images of gold, silver, and nak (1) and cast with brass or bronze in the Buddha-making Market. [1]


Maps


Wat Kraji shows on Kaempfer's sketch. Engelbert Kaempfer was a medical doctor working for the Dutch VOC (Verenigde Oost-Indische Compagnie) who surveyed the city of Ayutthaya in June 1690 CE. The temple, indicated with two stupas on his sketch, is situated east of Thewa Sathan (Place of Deities) and the Chikun Bridge. To the east and at a short distance, there was another unidentified temple, which also appears on PBR's map.


The monastery is indicated on a mid-19th century map of an unknown surveyor. The temple is west of Khlong Makham Riang (before Khlong Nai Kai), southeast of Wat Khok Rak, north of Wat Pa Takua, northeast of Wat Khok Seua and northwest of Wat Khok Phao Khao on the opposite side of Khlong Nai Kai. On the map,


Wat Kraji has two chedis, one in the front and one in the back of the vihara. Wat Kraji also appears on Phraya Boran Ratchathanin’s map drafted in 1926 CE, along Pa Thon Road, east of Wat Thewa Sathan, west of an unnamed temple and south of Wat Pa Kup. Phraya Boran was the Superintendent Commissioner of Monthon Ayutthaya from 1925 till 1929 CE.


The ruin is in geographical coordinates: 14° 21' 14.09" N, 100° 34' 20.11" E.


Footnotes:


(1) Nak is an alloy of gold and copper called red gold.





References:


[1] Baker, Chris (2011). Before Ayutthaya Fell: Economic Life in an Industrious Society. Markets and Production in the City of Ayutthaya before 1767: Translation and Analysis of Part of the Description of Ayutthaya. Journal of the Siam Society. Vol. 99.