WAT MAI BANG KRAJA





Wat Mai Bang Kraja, or the New Monastery of the Distinct Village (1), also called Wat Mai, or the New Monastery, is located off the city island in the southern area of Ayutthaya in the Samphao Lom Sub-district (2).


The monastery is strategically situated at the confluence of the Chao Phraya River and the Pa Sak River (3), just opposite the Phet Fortress and the old harbour. Wat Nang Kui is on its northwestern side. On its east, on the opposite side of the river, stands Wat Phanan Choeng.


The original name was Wat Bang Kraja, but the temple decayed and was rebuilt, hence the name the 'New Monastery' or Wat Mai.


Wat Mai is used by the Buddhist clergy. In situ is a classic temple consisting of an ordination hall (ubosot), a large chedi and a vihara. The large chedi belongs to the vihara. The ubosot, built in early Ayutthaya style (1351-1488 CE), stands in a strange north-south axis position, rather unusual as monastic buildings are almost built on an east-west axis, while the principal Buddha image is looking into the direction of the rising sun.


Wat Bang Kraja is mentioned in the Royal Chronicles of Ayutthaya. In 1549 CE, after King Chakkraphat (reign 1548-1569 CE) came on the throne of Ayutthaya in an unstable period, Burma seeing its chance to conquer the Siamese city-state, invested Ayutthaya. Patani, being a vassal state, sent down a naval force to assist Ayutthaya. The chronicles mention that the Patani fleet anchored in front of the Bang Kaja Monastery.


"At that moment the Phraya Sultan of Tani brought his naval force of two hundred yayap boats in to assist the government in the war. On arrival they anchored in front the Kutbangkaca Monastery. On the next day they moved in to anchor at the Chai Gate. The Phraya and Sultan of Tani, having been presented with the opportunity, turned to revolt and entered the royal palace. King Cakkraphat was taken by surprise and fled to Maha Phram Island on the Si Sakkalat Royal Barge. His generals and ministers together entered the royal palace and utterly routed the men of Tani who boarded their boats and promptly fled. All the chief ministers then went out to invite King Cakkraphat, Lord of the White Elephant, to enter his great royal residence.” [1]





(View of Wat Mai Bang Kraja)



The Chronicles found at the British Museum state that in the year 924 of the Chula Sakarat (3), the King Maha Thammaracha (reign 1569-1590 CE) had the moat by the front ramparts on the east dug ten wa (4) wide and three wa deep from the Maha Chai Fort at the Back Palace (5) down to connect with Kaca village.


"In 924, a year of the dog, fourth of the decade, the King had the Royal Metropolis renovated. He had the moat by the front ramparts on the east dug ten wa wide and three wa deep from the Maha Chai Fort at the Back Palace down to connect with Kaca Village [Canal?]. Then he had the city walls moved out to the banks of the river, the outer limit of the Royal Metropolis, and connected with the Maha Chai Fort, and from the Maha Chai Fort connected down to the Phet Fort." [2]


The important Nam Won Bang Kraja floating market (6), situated near the anchorage for foreign boats and junks, was held near this temple at the whirlpool (7) of Bang Kraja in front of Wat Chao Phanan Choeng. It was a densely populated area close to many floating markets and gathering grounds. [3]


Wat Bang Kraja features on the drafted map of Engelbert Kaempfer. Kaempfer (1651-1716 CE) was a medical doctor working for the Dutch VOC (Verenigde Oost-Indische Compagnie) who surveyed the city of Ayutthaya in June 1690 CE. The monastery is shown next to the floating market just south of Pom Phet (Diamond Fort) and opposite Wat Phanan Choeng. [4] Wat Bang Kraja is also indicated on François Valentyn's map (1724-6 CE) “Groote Siamse Rievier Me-Nam Of Te Moeder Der Wateren In haren loop met de vallende Spruyten Verbeeld” as "Wat May". (8) [5]


The site is shown on a 19th-century map as Wat Mai Bang Kraja and Phraya Boran Rachathanin's map drafted in 1926 CE as Wat Mai.


Wat Mai Bang Kraja is in geographical coordinates: 14° 20' 41.13" N, 100° 34' 28.76" E.





(Ruined stupa at Wat Mai Bang Kraja)



Footnotes:


(1) Bang Kraja was a village outside the city walls of Ayutthaya. Kraja (กระจะ), sometimes written Kaca, Kacha, means 'distinct'. Villages along a waterway often received the name 'Bang' instead of the classic nomination 'Ban'.

(2) Samphao Lom, literally the capsized junk. John Bowring wrote in his book "The Kingdom and People of Siam" that "Between the modern and the ancient capital, Bangkok and Ayuthia, is a village called the “Sunken Ship,” the houses being erected round a mast which towers above the surface at low water". [Reference: Bowring, John (1857). The Kingdom and People of Siam Vol I. London, John W. Parker and Son, West Strand. p. 12.]

(3) Not many people realise this was not the case in the Ayutthaya period. At that time, it was the Lopburi River that flowed around Ayutthaya. Today's Chao Phraya River ran through the Bang Ban Canal to Si Kuk and from there to Bang Sai (historical site: Chedi Wat Sanam Chai), where the Lopburi River joined the Chao Phraya River. At the time, the Chao Phraya River was situated about ten kilometres west of the centre of Ayutthaya. The city was linked to the ancient Chao Phraya River in the northwest of Ayutthaya via the Khlong Maha Phram and in the southwest via the Khlong Nam Ya. Steve Van Beeck (1994), in 'The Chao Phya: River in Transition" (Oxford University Press - New York.), writes that "It was not until 1857 that an alternative path was created [for the Chao Phraya River]. A 5-kilometre channel was dug from the entrance of Wat Chulamani to Ban Mai. The river responded by following this new course and abandoning the old one, in effect making a secondary river of the stretch that ran from Ban Mai, and into the Chao Phya Noi. Half as wide as the river above and below it, the 1857 Ban Mai shunt funnels the Chao Phya down to Ayutthaya." It was also just a branch of the Pa Sak River that flowed through the Hantra Fields east of Ayutthaya, as there is strong evidence that the Pa Sak River proper flowed into the Chao Phraya River at Bang Pa-In. The branch was then channelled through Khlong Sai in the early twentieth century and eventually became the Pa Sak River that we know today, bordering the east side of the city island.

(3) See the definition of Chula Sakarat in Siampedia. The Luang Prasoet Chronicle states these works were done in 942 CS, being 1580 CE, a date generally accepted.

(4) See the definition of Wa in Siampedia.

(5) Now called Wang Na or Front Palace.

(6) The Nam Won Bang Kaja floating market was one of the four large floating markets on the river around Ayutthaya. [6]

(7) The confluence of the Chao Phraya and Pa Sak rivers, in front of Phet Fortress and Wat Phanan Choeng, has been historically notorious for whirlpools (Th: Nam Won) during the rainy season. (8) Translated: “The Great Siamese River Me-Nam or Mother of Waters depicted in her course with its tributaries”.


References:


[1] Cushman, Richard D. & Wyatt, David K. (2006). The Royal Chronicles of Ayutthaya. Bangkok: The Siam Society. p. 49.

[2] Ibid. p. 82.

[3] Charnvit Kasetsiri & Michael Wright (2007). Discovering Ayutthaya. Toyota Thailand Foundation. p. 271.

[4] Kaempfer, Engelbert - Werke 4. Kritische Ausgabe in Einzelbänden. Herausgegeben von Detlef Haberland, Wolfgang Michel, Elisabeth Gössmann. Engelbert Kaempfer in Siam. Iudicum Verlag GmbH München 2003. Edited by Barend Jan Terwiel.

[5] Valentyn, François (1626). Oud en Nieuw Oost-Indiën. Deel 3. Boek 6. Beschryvinge van Siam en onsen Handel aldaar.

[6] Pongsripian, Vinai, Dr. (2007). Phanna phumisathan Phra Nakhon Sri Ayutthaya: Ekasan jak Ho Luang. Geographical description of Ayutthaya: Documents from the palace. Bangkok: Usakane. p. 84.