WAT NANG KUI





Wat Nang Kui, or the Monastery of the Lady named Kui, is an active temple located off the city island in the southern area of Ayutthaya, in the Samphao Lom Sub-district. (1)


The monastery is situated along the Chao Phraya River. (2) To its west side lies Wat Khun Phrom, and to its south, Wat Mai Bang Kraja.


The monastery was built in 1587 CE, a few years after the first fall of Ayutthaya. A wealthy woman sponsored the construction called Lady Kui, hence the temple's name. After the second fall of Ayutthaya, the monastery was left empty and neglected until in the Rattanakosin period during the Reign of King Rama III, the monastery was renovated.


The temple is known for its sandstone Buddha image, Mae Takhian Thong and Luang Pho Yim statue.


Historical data about the monastery is unknown.


The site is indicated on a 19th-century map and Phraya Boran Rachathanin's map drafted in 1926 CE.


From the temple, you have nearly a straight view of Pom Phet or the Diamond Fort. Therefore, it was surely occupied by the Burmese army in the last battle for Ayutthaya in 1767 CE.


The vihara of Mae Takhian Thong has been built in the year 2000 CE. The statue of Mae Takhian Thong was handmade from an old Takhian tree that has stood on the premises of the temple since its establishment. The local community has worshipped the tree since old years. The Thakian tree is believed to house the female spirit ‘Nang Takhian’, the same as a banana tree houses the spirit of ‘Nang Tani’. Around Thailand, you will find trees wrapped with cloth, meaning that spirits inhabit those trees.


In 1995 and 1996 CE, Ayutthaya endured high flood levels for long periods. Many trees died off in the period afterwards, including the old Thakian tree. Its branches came down on the Sala Kanparien of the monastery, which was destroyed. In 1998 CE, the tree was finally cut down. From the large trunk, the wooden image of Mae Takhian Thong was sculpted. Over the tree stump, a vihara was built, and the sculpture of Mae Takhian Thong, containing the tree’s spirit, was positioned on top of the old stump.


Wat Nang Kui is in geographical coordinates: 14° 20' 46.45" N, 100° 34' 24.08" E.





(View of Wat Nang Kui)



Footnotes:


(1) Literally, the sub-district of the capsized junk. The area was known before as Ban Samphao Lom. John Bowring wrote in his book "The Kingdom and People of Siam" that "Between the modern and the ancient capital, Bangkok and Ayuthia, is a village called the “Sunken Ship,” the houses being erected round a mast which towers above the surface at low water". [Reference: Bowring, John (1857). The Kingdom and People of Siam Vol I. London, John W. Parker and Son, West Strand. p. 12.]

(2) Not many people realise the Chao Phraya River was not running on the west side of the city island in the Ayutthaya period. At that time, it was the Lopburi River that flowed around Ayutthaya. Today's Chao Phraya River ran through the Bang Ban Canal to Si Kuk and from there to Bang Sai (historical site: Chedi Wat Sanam Chai), where the Lopburi River joined the Chao Phraya River. At the time, the Chao Phraya River was situated about ten kilometres west of the centre of Ayutthaya. The city was linked to the ancient Chao Phraya River in the northwest of Ayutthaya via the Khlong Maha Phram and in the southwest via the Khlong Nam Ya. Steve Van Beeck (1994), in 'The Chao Phya: River in Transition" (Oxford University Press - New York.), writes that "It was not until 1857 that an alternative path was created [for the Chao Phraya River]. A 5-kilometre channel was dug from the entrance of Wat Chulamani to Ban Mai. The river responded by following this new course and abandoning the old one, in effect making a secondary river of the stretch that ran from Ban Mai, and into the Chao Phya Noi. Half as wide as the river above and below it, the 1857 Ban Mai shunt funnels the Chao Phya down to Ayutthaya."