THE ROYAL JETTIES OF AYUTTHAYA





Tha Wasukri, the jetty of the Grand Palace


Tha Wasukri is located on the city island in the Historical Park, within a sub-district named after it. The boat landing is just north of the Grand Palace and near Wat Mai Chai Wichit, a 19th-century monastery.


The Wasukri landing was named after Vasuki (Sanskrit), a mythical snake used as a rope by the devas (gods) and the asuras (demons) to churn the ocean of milk and obtain the Nectar of Immortality. The ocean was churned using the mountain Mandara, with the snake Vasuki wrapped around it. Vasuki is the lord of the naga snakes in Hindu mythology and opposes Garuda, the mount of Vishnu, as they represent death and rebirth, respectively. He has a Nagamani gem on his head. According to Hindu mythology, Vasuki encircles the world, and his movements can cause earthquakes.


The boat landing was the royal palace jetty on the old Lopburi River, now a stretch of the Chao Phraya River. It was positioned centrally along the northern boundary of the palace, between the Horse Bathing Landing at the north-western corner of the palace and the Khan Landing at the north-eastern corner.


Barges left the royal dockyard located between Wat Choeng Tha and Wat Phanom Yong to stop at this jetty for royalty to board or disembark. From Tha Wasukri, a covered walkway or corridor (Th: chanuan) extended throughout the palace grounds up to Wat Phra Sri Sanphet, designed to protect the palace residents from the sun, rain, and public view. The gate leading from the Wasukri landing into the Grand Palace was called the Maha Traiphopchon Thawara Uthok Gate, commonly known as the Water Cloister Gate. Phraya Boran Ratchathanin refers to it as Pratu Chanuan on his map.





(Tha Wasukri near the Grand Palace – Picture taken August 2010 CE)



No boat traffic was allowed in front of the Grand Palace between the Horse Bathing Landing and the Khan landing. De La Loubère, a French diplomat visiting Siam at the end of the 17th century, wrote:


"The Siamese neither enter into the Vang, nor depart thence without prostrating themselves, and they pass not before the Prassat. And if sometimes the stream of the water carries them, and forces them to pass thereby, they are pelted with showers of pease, which the King's servants shoot over them with trunks." [1]


The whole stretch of water from Wat Sala Pun, east of the boathouse of the royal barges, until the Kalahom Landing was under strict vigilance. Three guard pavilions controlled traffic on the old Lopburi River in front of the palace and handled all events and incidents in that area. All boat traffic not related to the palace was blocked between the guard pavilion in the west, near Wat Sala Pun, and the guard pavilion in the east, probably located opposite the mouth of Lam Khu Pak Sra in the vicinity of the Kalahom Landing (Palace Law). One of these guard pavilions features on a 19th-century map in front of the landing called Tha Sala Wen, in the old texts called Sala Trawen. The landing is mentioned in the Royal Chronicles of Ayutthaya:


"When it was two nalika and five hat in the afternoon, the Supreme-Holy- Buddhist-Lord-Omnipotent, having finished donning all His gold ornaments and magnificent excellent gold adornments, mounted the Butsabok Rattana Maha Phiman Holy Throne which adorned the center of the Victorious Gold Swan Proceeding in Military Procession Boat, moving in procession made His entrance into the Metropolis and came alongside the Great Wasukri Landing, and paused to cast His holy eyes on the procession accompanying the Holy Buddha figures which was supremely magnificent with all of those premier boats." [2]


The Wasukri landing is not indicated on the 19th-century map, nor on Phraya Boran Ratchathanin's map drafted in 1926 CE.





(Tha Wasukri near the Grand Palace – Picture taken November 2009 CE)



The jetty of the Front Palace


On a 19th-century map, there is a Tha Chalom marked near the Front Palace (Wang Chanthara Kasem), situated between Tha Chang Wang Na and Tha Paet Tamruat. The name Chalom refers to a type of boat resembling a barge, with a tapering, curved bow and stern, and a broad middle section. Whether or not this was the jetty of the Front Palace remains uncertain. Since it is not positioned directly opposite the palace, it is likely not.


At present, mid-palace and in front of it, there is a jetty where people can cross to Wat Monthop on Ko Loi and where there is also the possibility to hire boats to make a trip around the Ayutthaya city island, including visiting some temples. This was most likely the royal boat landing of the Front Palace for the Uparat or Viceroy.





(Wang Na Pier in front of the Chanthara Kasem National Museum – Picture taken March 2024 CE)



The jetty of the Rear Palace


The location of the Rear Palace Landing is uncertain. On a 19th-century map, we see the Rear Palace Pier (Tha Phra Racha Wang Lang) situated west of Wat Kradichon (now defunct), just north of Khlong Tha Phra (also known as Khlong Klaep). Since the distance between this landing and the Rear Palace exceeds 500 metres, it is unlikely that the Rear Palace Landing was at this location. In my view, the position of the landing on the map is incorrect.


Logically, the Rear Palace Landing must have been positioned in front of the Rear Palace. An official pavilion has been built in front of the Queen Suriyothai Shrine at Wat Suan Luang, which I interpret as evidence that the Fine Arts Department is convinced that this was the location of the Rear Palace Landing. It would be odd for a ferry to leave from a royal jetty.


Tha Phra Racha Wang Lang must have been situated between Tha Dan Lom (Wind Barrier Landing) and Tha Ban Chao Phraya Phonlathep (Chao Phraya Phonlathep’s House Landing).





(Tha Phra Racha Wang Lang - Picture taken April 2011 CE)



References:


[1] Loubère, Simon (de la) (1693). A new Historical Relation of the Kingdom of Siam (2 Tomes). London. Edited by John Villiers. Bangkok: White Lotus, 1986. p 96.

[2] Cushman, Richard D. & Wyatt, David K. (2006). The Royal Chronicles of Ayutthaya. Bangkok: The Siam Society. p. 206.