AYUTTHAYA HISTORICAL RESEARCH



THE AYUTTHAYA BOAT AND FERRY LANDINGS





Ayutthaya was called the Venice of the East. The city was a water-based settlement, surrounded by the old Lopburi River since the end of the 16th century, and crossed by many wide canals that drew water from it. Transport was mainly by water, so boats were plentiful in and around the city.


Several ferry and boat landings existed for travel to and from the city island. These boat and ferry landings are recorded in the old document “Description of Ayutthaya”, compiled early in the Bangkok era from the memories of people who had lived in Ayutthaya before 1767 CE and in later versions. [1]


The ferry landings are marked on a 19th-century map, probably based on the interpretation of the old document. I assume this map was created during King Mongkut's reign (1851-1868 CE), as Wat Senasanaram is shown, surrounded by a canal probably dug around 1863 CE to encircle the monastery and provide access.


I will use the details of this map to discuss the ferries around Ayutthaya City Island that existed in the 18th century.





(19th-century map of Ayutthaya - The North is at the bottom)



The ferry landings


On the east side of the city, there were five ferries in connection with the opposite riverbank.


From north to south, we had Tha Chang Wang Na, the Elephant Landing of the Front Palace (Chanthara Kasem), at Hua Ro, which connected to Tha Wilanda, the Dutch Landing, on the northern mainland. Tha Chang lay north of the Front Palace and east of Wat Khamin on the south bank of Khlong Khamin, also called Khlong Senasanaram. The ferry route lay south of the Thamnop Ro Bridge. Why the landing near Wat Sam Wihan and Wat Maha Lok was called "Wilanda" remains an open question.





The second ferry route linked the guard post south of the Front Palace with the area north of Wat Khwang Fortress. The landing on the city side was called "Eight Guards" and connected to the landing at Wat Saphan Kluea (now on Ko Loi, but previously on the eastern mainland).





A third ferry route connected the city with Wat Nang Chi on the eastern mainland. The ferry landing on the city's side stood close to the mouth of Khlong Ho Rattanachai on its north bank, south of Wat Khwang. At the ferry landing of Wat Nang Chi, there was one of the thirty land markets, considering only the area falling between the four main customs posts.





The next connection was located on the mid-east side. Somewhere south of Wat Pa Thon by the river, there was a ferry landing connecting with the landing at Wat Phichai.





Finally, the fifth ferry route connected the landing north of Ratchakrue Fortress with Wat Ko Kaeo.


On the 19th-century map, I identified six boat landings on the eastern side of the city and five landings on the eastern mainland.







On the south side of Ayutthaya, there were six landings to and from the city.


The first location was at Hua Sarapha, east of Pom Phet (Diamond Fort), near the arched gateway (1) of Talat Rong Lek (iron workshop market), which was connected to the landing at Wat Phanan Choeng. There was also a Chinese fresh market, called the Little Market, in the Three Horses Quarter, behind the iron workshop market up to the tunnel gate at the ferry landing opposite Wat Phanang Choeng. It was linked to the Big Market in Nai Kai Quarter.





The second ferry route was from Tha Hoi, situated between Khlong Nai Kai and Khlong Pratu Jin, south of China Street on the city island, to the landing at Wat Pa Jak on the southern mainland. Tha Hoi was known on some maps as the Chinese Village Landing (Tha Muban Jin) and, at the beginning of the 20th century, was located in front of an alcohol distillery.





A third ferry route connected Phraya Racha Wangsan's residence (2) at the mouth of Khlong Pratu Jin (on the west bank) to the landing of Wat Khun Phrom. This ferry service still operates today.





The next landing was Tha Dan Chi or Nun's Barrier Landing, with a ferry to the landing at Wat Surin(tharam).





The fifth ferry was near the mouth of the Chakrai Noi Canal on its west bank, in connection with the landing at Wat Tha Rap, which is situated east of Wat Phutthaisawan. The 19th-century map indicates an additional landing near the Khlong Chakrai Yai Gate.





And lastly, on the southern side, there was the ferry route between the landing at the Palace of Victory (Wat Wang Chai) on the city's side and the landing near Wat Nak at the mouth of Khlong Takhian. However, Wat Nak is situated about 400 metres inland on the western bank of Khlong Takhian, prompting the question of why the landing was named as such when Wat Khok Phlu and Wat Klang were much closer, at the canal's mouth.


On the 19th-century map, I identified seven boat landings on the southern side of the city and six landings on the southern mainland.







The short west side of Ayutthaya had four ferry landings.


The first western ferry route operated from the landing at Wat Chayaram, a ruined temple, to the landing at Ban Chi, or the Village of the Nuns, situated between Wat Chai Watthanaram and Wat Sanam Chai. Wat Chayaram, also known as Wat Pho Phueak, is located between Wat Wang Chai and Wat Raeng.





The second route went from the Phra Racha Wang Lang Landing (Rear Palace) near the mouth (and south) of Khlong Tha Phra to the landing at Wat Lot Chong on the western mainland.


This route appears problematic because the distance between the two landings is nearly half a kilometre, and ferries mostly travel in a straight line from bank to bank. On the 19th-century map, it looks like a straight line, but in reality, it isn’t.


Chris Baker suggested that this entry probably muddies two ferries. The ferry from Wat Lot Chong probably went to a landing just south of the mouth of Rice Husk (klaep) Canal, while the ferry from the Rear Palace probably went to a landing at Wat Ratcha Phli. [2]


In my opinion, the position of Tha Phra Racha Wang Lang (Rear Palace Landing) is wrong on the map. It must have been situated between Tha Dan Lom (Wind Barrier Landing) and Tha Ban Chao Phraya Phonlathep (Chao Phraya Phonlathep’s House Landing). Tha Phra Racha Wang Lang was not used as a ferry landing.





The third ferry was Tha Dan Lom (Wind Barrier Landing) in front of the Rear Palace on the city's side in connection with the landing at Wat Kasattra.





The last connection on the west side of the city was the one at Ban Jao Phraya Phonlathep’s (3) connecting to the boat landing of Wat Thamma. There was a land market at Wat Thamma ferry, one of the thirty markets between the four main customs posts.


The crossing at the latter monastery figures in the epic story Khun Chang, Khun Phaen: "At Wat Thamma, they stopped and dismounted from the elephant by the riverbank. Little Khun Chang and his father crossed the river and waited to enter the city." [3]


On the 19th-century map, I identified five boat landings on the western side of the city and four landings on the western mainland. In my opinion, the position of Tha Phra Ratcha Wang Lang on the map is incorrect.







Finally, the long northern side of Ayutthaya had seven ferry landings.


The first landing was situated near Pratu Sattakop (north of Sattakop Fortress) and was known as Tha Nuea, or North Landing. The latter connected across the Lopburi River to the landing at Wat Khun Yuan on the northern mainland.


On the 19th-century map, there is also a Tha Pla Sot (Fresh Fish Landing) indicated near the Sattakop Fortress. There is no mention of a ferry in the old documents.





The next was called Tha Ma Ap Nam, or Horse Bathing Landing, and connected to the landing at Wat Choeng Tha. Horse Bathing Landing was situated near the northwest corner of the Grand Palace, just east of the mouth of Khlong Pak Tho.


It became the landing place for officials crossing to the palace after the palace was remodelled during King Phetracha's reign (1688-1703 CE), replacing the function of the Khan Landing (noted next).





The third ferry was from the Khan Landing, also known as the Noblemen's Landing, at the northeast corner of the palace adjacent to the Tha Khan Fortress, which was connected to the Sala Trawen Landing (4), a guard or control post on the opposite side of the Grand Palace near the mouth of Khlong Sra Bua, situated between Wat Mai and Wat Kuti Thong.


It was the main jetty used by officials and people on royal command for entering the palace until the reign of King Petracha, sometimes called Tha Khoi or Waiting Landing, where boats waited for their masters.


The ferry operated continuously, both day and night, serving as the official ferry for the Grand Palace. It was at this ferry that the French Embassy of de Chaumont disembarked to enter the Grand Palace. [4]


The Khan Landing is also shown as Tha Sip Bia (Ten Cowries Landing) on the 19th-century map, but I believe this is incorrect.





The fourth ferry route was from the Ten Cowries Landing (Tha Sip Bia) on the city's side across towards the landing near Wat Pho. The ferry crossing charged 5 cowrie shells for a one-way trip. If someone crossed and returned, they had to pay 10 cowrie shells, which gave rise to the ferry's name.


Tha Sip Bia must have been at Tha Kalahom as this landing is just opposite Wat Pho. Between Tha Khan and the next ferry landing, Tha Sai, there is a considerable distance of roughly 800 metres that is not travelled by any ferry, according to the old texts.


If Tha Sip Bia were the same landing as Tha Khan, the ferry would need to cover 400 metres, a distance that is quite challenging for the rower going upstream with a load and passengers. It would thus be logical that there was a ferry from Tha Kalahom to Wat Pho.





The next ferry was from the landing of Wat Tha Sai, also known as Sand Landing— the monastery in fact took its name from this landing—across to the landing of Wat Rong Khong near Ban Chao Phraya Chakri (5).


Phraya Boran Ratchathanin wrote in "The Legend of the Old City" (1907) that this pier actually had sand and that a short dig down revealed sand throughout the area. At this landing, there was a pair of salas for travellers to rest and distribute alms.





The sixth ferry was near Wat Song, connecting with the landing at Wat Pa Khonthi on Potter’s Village Road (Ban Mo). The Wat Song Landing was located at the end of the Front Palace Elephant Stable Road.





The seventh and final northern ferry started just above the Maha Chai Fortress at the Hua Ro corner, ferrying people across to the herd landing (Tha Khlong) at Wat Mae Nang Pluem. This night-and-day landing on the city island was also known as Tha Khun Nang, or the Noblemen Landing, and was, in fact, the second official landing.


On the 19th-century map, I identified eight boat landings on the western side of the city and seven landings on the western mainland.





In conclusion, based on the old documents, there were 22 ferries around the city, of which 2 were official. The latter included the Noblemen Landing at Hua Ro and the Tha Khan Landing near the northeast corner of the Grand Palace.





Present ferries


The Phraya Racha Wangsan – Wat Khun Phrom ferry route, dating back to the Ayutthaya period, still operates as a motorised ferry, connecting the southern end of Chikun Road with Wat Khun Phrom. The ferry can carry pedestrians, bicycles and scooters.





(Wat Khun Phrom Ferry Landing – Picture taken February 2010 CE)



A motorised ferry on the eastern side operates the connection between Jao Phrom Market and the Ayutthaya Railway station, with a landing at Sala Jao Bung Kao Kong Ma. Pedestrians and bicycles can be transported here. The ferry offers an alternative to people who want to avoid the busy Naresuan or Pridi-Thamrong Bridges.





(Ayutthaya Train Station Landing – Picture taken January 2010 CE)



A non-motorised ferry operates at Wang Na Pier, in front of the Chanthara Kasem National Museum, to Wat Monthop on Ko Loi (floating island) on the opposite side.





(Wang Na Pier and Wat Monthop Landing – Picture taken May 2024 CE)



Footnotes:


(1) The arched gateway (pratu chong kut) is an aperture in the wall large enough for someone to walk through. A surviving example stands at the southwest corner beside the premises of the Wat Rattana Chai, the former Wat Jin.

(2) Phraya Racha Wangsan is mentioned in the Royal Chronicles of Ayutthaya. The Phraya Racha Wangsan was the division chief of the Krom Asa Cham, responsible for the Cham communities in Ayutthaya (Chularatana, 2008). The author has the impression that the role of the Racha Wangsan should be understood more broadly, including being responsible for at least part of the Ayutthaya naval forces. The first French Embassy was lodged at the house of "a great Mandarin, a Persian by Nation". Hence, the author believes this was at the Phraya Racha Wangsan's house (Tachard, 1688).

(3) Phraya Phonlathep - Civilian rank - Senabodi (Chief) of the Krom Phra Kasetrathibodi (Pillar of the Rice Fields). Royal servant holding a Sakdina of 10,000 Rai. (Reynolds, 1987)

(4) Sala Trawen was the middle of three guard posts to watch the river by the palace an upper one mentioned in the Palace Law was probably on the opposite bank between the Kalahom Landing and Khan Landing and the lower one was near Salapun, perhaps beside Wat Salapun. (Baker, 2014)

(5) Chao Phraya Chakri Siongkharak - Civilian rank - Chief Senabodi. Head of the Samuhanayok (civilian affairs concentrated here). Royal servant holding the Sakdina of 10,000 Rai. (Reynolds, 1987)


References:


[1] Baker, Chris (2011). Note On Testimonies and Description of Ayutthaya. Journal of the Siam Society. Vol. 99.
[2] Baker, Chris (2014). Final Part of the Description of Ayutthaya with Remarks on Defence, Policing, Infrastructure, and Sacred Sites. Journal of the Siam Society, Vol. 102.
[3] Baker, Chris & Phongpaichit, Pasuk (2012). The Tale of Khun Chang Khun Phaen: Siam’s Great Folk Epic of Love and War.
[4] Phraya Boran Burirak (1907). Tamnan Krung Kao (History of the Old City). Bangkok. Aksorn Printing House.



When the past no longer illuminates the future, the spirit walks in darkness.
(Alexis de Tocqueville)





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