WAT KHRUTTHARAM





Wat Khruttharam, or the Monastery of the Garuda (1), is located off the city island in the northern area of Ayutthaya, in Khlong Sra Bua Sub-district. The temple sits on the east bank of Khlong Sra Bua (2) in a locality called Thung Kaeo (3) and is accessed by the road running parallel to Khlong Hua Ro (4). Wat Bua stood opposite the Sra Bua canal, and Wat Ngio was north of Wat Khruttharam, along the bank of Khlong Hua Ro. Originally, the temple was called Wat Khrut. (5)


Wat Khrut stood in the centre of a community whose primary occupation was moulding large storage jars, mainly for water, called Nang Loeng, or, loosely translated, "large ladies". [1]


After moulding, they dried and fired the pots using open bonfire techniques. The Fine Arts Department undertook ceramic-production excavations in this area from 2000 to 2002 CE. (See: Khlong Sra Bua Kilns and Ban Tum Kilns)


The primary purpose of these water jars can be found in de La Loubère's 'Historical Relation':


"For when the waters retire, and they are filled with mud, and perhaps with the ill juices which they take from the earth, or when the river is re-entered into its channel sufficiently muddy, they are more corrosive, do cause concerning and lasks, and cannot be drunk without danger, till they have them stand in great jars or pitchers, the space of three weeks or a month." [2]





(View of Wat Khrut – Picture taken September 2008 CE)



Wat Khrut was one of the thirty known land markets outside Ayutthaya. [3]


The Buddhist clergy still uses the monastery. The oldest area of the temple compound has a walled ordination hall, or ubosot, built in the early Ayutthaya style (1351-1488 CE). A small chedi is situated southeast of the ubosot.


The Royal Chronicles of Ayutthaya, editions of the British Museum and Reverend Phonnarat, mention that King Suriyamin (reign 1758-1767 CE) constructed this temple in 1759 CE at the same time as the ‘Monastery of the Lamut Tree’. [4]


The temple is featured on the 1974, 1993 and 2007 CE Foreign Arts Department maps. On the 1974 and 1993 CE FAD maps, the monastery is called Wat Khrut.





(Chedi of Wat Khrut – Picture taken September 2008 CE)



Noh Na Paknam


Noh Na Paknam was a prolific writer, art historian, and preservationist who worked closely with Silpakorn University and the Fine Arts Department, and who wrote extensively on Thai temples, antiques, and murals. From November 1966 to March 1967 CE, he spent five months in the Ayutthaya area, visiting known temples and ruins. He visited Wat Khrut on 2 February 1967 CE. The following is a report from his site visit.


“Wat Krut is located not far from Wat Klang, at the end of the road and adjacent to Khlong Sa Bua canal on the west side. Inside the main chapel are several large, white sandstone Buddha heads and a beautiful terracotta pagoda-shaped finial placed beside the chapel. The boundary markers (sema) have an unusual shape, with a tapering waist and a crown-like finial topped with two circles on either side of the base, and a pedestal underneath. Its origin is unclear. The octagonal, bell-shaped stupa resembles the one in front of the main chapel at Wat Sri Pho, believed to be from the reign of King Borommakot. The archways at the front and back of the chapel are in the old style. There are still many antique items for study here. The pulpit at Wat Krut features exquisitely carved wood, believed to be the work of craftsmen from the late Ayutthaya period. Most of the carvings remain, but some have been vandalised, with the naga heads and decorative panels removed. The lion's legs at the base are also missing. It is made with three Naga heads, exceptionally beautiful. It is a pity that it is left to be seen by antique dealers and will surely disappear. It is appropriate for the government to request it as a national treasure and put it in the museum as soon as possible. It is difficult to talk about this matter because the museum officials do not see its value, as they do not have an artistic eye like us. On the contrary, we see it as the most valuable thing. We feel sorry in our hearts that such a good and beautiful thing, a treasure of our country, is being neglected to this extent. In the end, it will all be lost and destroyed because those in charge of this matter lack knowledge and do not see its importance at all. Therefore, it remains and survives, escaping the eyes of antique dealers and being displayed for all to see today.”


“The octagonal pagoda at Wat Krut, Wat Sri Pho in Khlong Sra Bua, is of the same style and size as the copper pagoda at Wat Maheyong, and is also located in front of the ordination hall. Later, similar octagonal pagodas were found at Wat Bang Pho in Bangkok, situated in front of the former, now-abandoned ordination hall, and at Wat Rong Chang in Ratchaburi, beside the ordination hall. As previously mentioned, this style of pagoda originated during the reign of King Thaisra at Wat Maheyong, while those at Wat Krut and Wat Sri Pho date back to the reign of King Borommakot. This clearly demonstrates that the popularity of this style continued until the time of King Borommakot.”


“Regarding the pulpit at Wat Krut, I visited it several times afterwards and found it to be an early Ayutthaya piece. However, the temple later disassembled it and stored the pieces in the abbot's quarters. Its fate remains unknown, as it was many years ago when I last saw it.”


Wat Khruttharam is at geographical coordinates: 14° 22' 38.54" N, 100° 33' 29.16" E.


There is also a brick mound of a temple called Wat Khrut in Tha Wasukri Sub-district in a locality called Thung Khwan.





(Buddha image in the old ubosot of Wat Khrut – Picture taken January 2023 CE)



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Footnotes:

(1) Suparna and Garuda (Th: Suban and Khrut) are Sanskrit terms denoting a race of enormous, monstrous birds whose chief occupation seems to be watching for and pouncing on the weaker Naga serpents. The Garudas can only conquer the weaker family members (218) as their power is not equal to that of the superior Nagas. (192) The bird Garuda is the bearer of Vishnu, commonly represented in pictures as being borne along by that bird. (212) Phya Khrut is the great enemy of the Nagas but not otherwise evil-disposed. (258) [5]
(2) Khlong Sra Bua, or the Lilly Pond Canal, is a canal situated in the northern area off the city island in the Khlong Sra Bua district. The waterway splits from Khlong Hua Ro between Wat Ngio (defunct) and Wat Si Liam. The canal has its mouth at the City Canal (Khlong Mueang) between Wat Na Phra Men and Wat Mai in front of the north-eastern corner of the Grand Palace. The canal was a shortcut in the old Lopburi River.
(3) Thung Kaeo or Crystal Field is an area north of the city of Ayutthaya bordered on the west and north by Khlong Sra Bua on the east by Khlong Hua Ro, and on the south by Khlong Mueang.
(4) Khlong Hua Ro is situated off the city island in the northern area and north of the Hua Ro Sub-district. The canal is the western border of the Suan Phrik Sub-district and the eastern border of the Lum Phli and Khlong Sra Bua sub-districts. The old Lopburi River bed ran from Wat Khao Din (Wat Wora Nayok Rangsan) in Bang Pahan District towards the city of Ayutthaya and is now divided in four stretches Khlong Ban Muang from Wat Muang until Wat Dao Khanong in Bang Pahan District Khlong Bang Khuat (a short-cut canal in the Lopburi River loop) from Wat Dao Khanong to (south of) Wat Klang Raman in Ayutthaya City District Khlong Hua Ro from (north of) Wat Pom Raman to Hua Ro in Ayutthaya City District.
(5) The suffix ‘tharam’ is used in Sanskrit for a comparative and superlative form (great - greater, string - stronger) hence Wat Khrut - Wat Khrutharam. [6]

References:

[1] Pongsripian, Vinai, Dr. (2007). Phanna phumisathan Phra Nakhon Sri Ayutthaya: Ekasan jak Ho Luang. Geographical description of Ayutthaya: Documents from the palace. Bangkok: Usakane. pp. 86-7.

[2] Loubère, Simon (de la) (1693). A new Historical Relation of the Kingdom of Siam (2 Tomes). London. Edited by John Villiers. Bangkok: White Lotus, 1986. p. 21.

[3] Pongsripian, Vinai, Dr. (2007). Phanna phumisathan Phra Nakhon Sri Ayutthaya: Ekasan jak Ho Luang. Geographical description of Ayutthaya: Documents from the palace. Bangkok: Usakane. pp. 86-7.

[4] Cushman, Richard D. & Wyatt, David K. (2006). The Royal Chronicles of Ayutthaya. Bangkok: The Siam Society. p. 472.

[5] Alabaster, Henry (1871). The Wheel of The Law. London: Trubner & Co.

[6] Whitney, William Dwight (1979). A Sanskrit grammar including both the classical language, and the older dialects, of Veda and Brahmana. Leipzig, Breitkopf and Härtel. p. 159 #473.